Proenza Schouler will finally release a lower-priced, sister line that consists of casual wear. The New York-based designer duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have been working on the White Label to offer elevated basics. Proenza Schouler will mark 15 years of existence this year. The duo decided to celebrate their birthday in a big way.
The fashion crowd is obsessed with casual streetwear in the last few years. Proenza Schouler seems a bit late with their decision, but at least the new line PSWL justifies the long years of wait. The PSWL will offer clothing pieces that are part of people’s everyday life such as t-shirts, sweaters, jeans and outwear. The White Label will fulfill the designer’s duo long year desire to become a one-stop shopping destination for their beloved customers.
McCollough and Hernandez reflected the current obsession for logos and transparent raincoats through their designs for the White Label. You will find some of the best high-waist jeans in this line. The White Label features those artistic motifs recognizable for the fashion house. The prices for the White Label’s clothing items will be much more affordable than the main line. The printed tees have the lowest price tag and start at $195. The denim pieces and trousers will cost around $290 and the casual outwear is priced between $575 to $1195.
According to the designer duo, PSWL will evolve collaboratively. McCollough and Hernandez will involve their fashion-forward friends in the making of the next White Label’s collections. For the first drop, the designers invited the actress Chloë Sevigny who styled the looks and modeled for the campaign. The fashion icon is a close friend of the designer duo and loyal customer of Proenza Schouler. The campaign was shot by Ricky Saiz, Sevigny’s boyfriend.
In the future, we should expect more exciting collaborations with Marc Hundley, Mark Gonzales, Jen Brill, and of course Chloë Sevigny. According to the designers, the White Label “ It’s more of a creative dialogue with the different people.” Instead of working internally with only their ideas, the designers are willing to listen to more voices in the making of the collections for the White Label.
The items form the PSWL will be available at Farfetch, Lane Crawford, The Webster, Nordstrom and the brand’s website ProenzaSchouler.com. The sister line will drop on November 6. Besides the new label, Proenza Schouler should release its first fragrance at the beginning of next year.
Photo Credit: Proenza Schouler
The New York Fashion Week starts next week on September 7. This year there will be multiple changes predominantly in the schedule. Big names such as Altuzzara, Rodarte, Thom Browne, and Proenza Schouler decided to show their collections in Paris. Probably this was the reason why the NYFW will end one day earlier than usual. The last shows will happen on September 13.
During the NYFW designers will show their spring 2018 women’s collections. Some designers moved to Paris, but there are still many exciting names that will show their designs next week. Among the fashion houses that are returning this year to the NYFW are Tom Ford and Fenty x Puma by Rihanna. Both shows are expected to have a high-profile audience full of celebrities and influencers. There are also some designers who will show at NYFW for the first time. The cool streetwear label Daisy approved by Kim Kardashian West is on the schedule for this year. Next, Matthew Adams Dolan, Rihanna’s go-to denim designer will also make his debut on the NYFW. Other new names include Snow Xue Gao, Lou Dallas and Barragan and LRS. The plus-size clothing brand Addition Elle will also be part of the NYFW for the first time ever. Models such as Ashley Graham and Jordyn Woods will walk the runway for the brand. This is expected to be the most body-positive NYFW so far.
Another change this year is the location. Rumor has it that Brooklyn will be the center of the fashion events this year. Some of the brands already confirmed their locations in Brooklyn. Additionally, some designers choose out of town locations. Ralph Lauren, for example, will show his collection 46.1 miles from One World Trade Center. The designer will present Spring 2018 designs in his garage in Bedford. More designers are leaving the runway concept and opt for a more intimate atmosphere. This way, the audience has a closer look at the designs. Designers, on the other hand, get an opportunity to connect with the audience on a more personal level. This year Narciso Rodriguez and Rag and Bone will show the collections in their ateliers.
The NYFW has many new faces this year. The most popular one is Kaia Gerber, the 16-year-old daughter of the former supermodel Cindy Crawford. Kaia is the new face of the Daisy perfume by Marc Jacobs. Therefore, we should expect the model to make her debut at the NYFW on the Marc Jacobs’ show.
There are also many fashion films this year and upgraded in-between show snacks. Movies, snacks, and fashion seem like a perfect idea to spend the week.
The Proenza Schouler fall/winter 2017-2018 runway presentation was the goodbye to New York Fashion Week that many were surprised was coming, and a lot of people are sad at the concept. To clarify things, Proenza Schouler will be moving to Paris and adopting the Vetements’ sale enhancing show model. While this is a move up for the brand, it is a terrible loss for New York Fashion Week that will definitely be different in the absence of the fashion house.
There was hope for those who felt that the designers – Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, were hinting at the change as a trial run rather than a permanent change. For most, however, it is just a huge change that they are going to have to suffer through, with a hole left by the departure of a great runway presentation by a brand that has cemented its name with more than a decade’s worth of compliments and excitement around the brand. People genuinely looked forward to the show in New York each year and they will no longer have that.
Apparently the difference in the rules and expectations between New York and Paris Fashion Week will benefit them in the best of ways so we can only wish them best. The use of the Internet to live-stream shows and purchase the fashions has really changed how fashion works, so outside of the loss during NYFW itself, what really changes besides the show dates?
At any rate the Proenza Schouler fall 2017 collection was packed with elegant ideas and interesting cuts and eye-catching details that were completely unexpected. Smooth, form-flattering dresses featured an asymmetrical detailing and treatment over the bodices to affect how eyes travel down the form. The varying lengths and designs included in the collection were of course exciting, but they did not stand out so much that they erased the other ensembles as well. Flatteringly cut and graciously assembled suits were an interesting development in the collection.
While several of the collections have been showing suits for fall and winter, Proenza Schouler’s fall 2017 ready-to-wear line, the last to be shown at New York Fashion Week at least for now, has provided a charismatic yet elegant set of options that are ready for work and the daily transition. The suits and work-appropriate dress items were touched with detailing that similar to the dresses draws the eye on a bit of an unexpected journey over the ensemble.
The Proenza Schouler logo being the most prominent and surprisingly placed detail was much more welcomed than not. The accessories are definitely going to make the biggest of splashes throughout the collection with the surprising designs that were shown. The most interesting feature, perhaps because it was so unexpected is the use of the logo as exaggerated zipper pulls; it seems a fun and slightly odd detail that really does add to the overall coolness of the collection.
Photos courtesy of Zimbio
Proenza Schouler is joining the ever-growing list of fashion houses that are changing their yearly fashion calendars, and is going to show both its main and pre-fall collections at Paris Couture Week twice a year, leaving New York Fashion Week thus.
Proenza Schouler’s shift from the New York schedules to those of Paris Couture will be effective starting from the upcoming spring/summer 2018 season and runway show, with the Proenza Schouler fall/winter 2017 ready-to-wear show taking place in New York, on February 13th, as usual. By doing so, Proenza Schouler mainly aims at emphasizing the “heart and soul of the Proenza Schouler brand”, thus focusing and putting all of its efforts on “just” two runway shows per year, one in January and one in July (the location has yet to be revealed).
Why favor the exclusive Paris Couture Week over the more accessible, yet always anticipated, New York RTW Fashion Week, though? According to the fashion house, Proenza Schouler is in the process of re-defining its overall attitude, focusing on a “more pronounced international presence” that, among many other things, will help the launch of Proenza Schouler’s exciting future projects, such as the upcoming fragrance made in collaboration with L’Oréal Luxe.
Forthcoming collaborations aside, Proenza Schouler’s choice has a lot to do with the fashion industry’s changing processes and always more demanding audience. According to Proenza Schouler’s official press release, showing its main and pre-fall collections in Paris will help achieve “the company’s short and long-term goals”, as well as “enable the organization to function in a way that is more aligned with the demands of the industry today.”
It is also worth mentioning that in a world where fast-fashion seems to be the prevailing form of fashion, Proenza Schouler’s decision sort of breakes its chains by letting its collections live longer at retail, rather than being replaced by the next seasonal collection in a jiffy. The choice will, in fact, “ensure that Proenza Schouler’s runway collection, including both ready-to-wear and accessories, will be the focus of buys and deliver to stores earlier, thus giving them a longer life at retail. The collection will be divided into monthly deliveries each representing key groups from the show.”
As for the upcoming New York Fashion Week, the Big Apple already appears to be one of the industry’s current less favorite destinations, with fashion houses, such as Tommy Hilfiger, Hood by Air, Rebecca Minkoff, Rachel Comey, Rodarte and most recently Opening Ceremony, ditching NYFW for oases like Paris Couture Week and even Los Angeles. As many are already pointing out, only Raf Simons will probably save NYFW with his Calvin Klein runway shows, at this point!
Photo courtesy of Vogue
Barneys, the massive fashion retailer with an incredible history, has decided to team up with women’s wear and accessories powerhouse Proenza Schouler. Available on Barneys.com, the Proenza Schouler x Barneys collaboration is set to produce an XO capsule collection that provides a wide variety of options to boost the wardrobes of those fashionably minded.
There will be staples, such as the standard yet necessary LBD with the Proenza Schouler peplum waist poplin dress. There are also interesting maxi dresses like the Proenza Schouler bias cut plaid tweet long dress and the striped gauze V- neck one in cheery yellow.
The Proenza Schouler x Barneys holiday 2016 collection has high waisted pants, interesting handbags and layerable pieces in an array of cuts, colors and silhouettes. Interesting pieces such as the Proenza Schoulder striped canvas safari jacket and cotton long sleeve t-shirt, feature a generous amount of prints that are easy to see and interesting to pair up.
The handbags shown so far are all fun pieces, like the Proenza Schouler small lunch bag in different colors and patterns, intense enough to give it the appearance of a different texture altogether. Some of the pieces look like they are just wearable comfort like the Proenza Schouler off-the-shoulder halter-neck top.
Proenza Schouler was created in 2002 by native New Yorkers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez with incredible use of patterns and textures on custom created materials. The use of their custom materials meant that their clothing moved differently, fit different and performed differently than other fabrics.
Even the shoes, like the grommet-embellished oxfords pictured with the Proenza Schouler abstract print silk dress that featured an interesting set of ruffles for a remarkable silhouette. The same ruffle, print and fabric are seen on the shorter silk ruffle dress. The tree stem print silk twill trousers provide even more prints for the eye, this time layered with a cashmere cardigan in a soft yellow over the matching tree stem print silk blouse.
Barneys is going to have a collection previously unseen, immensely helpful and beautifully designed to show off from the capsule collection this collaboration will create. My personal favorite is the design and silhouette as well as the crispness of the Proenza Schouler black and white in the halter-tie neck top and open stitched long sleeve top.
It’s flowing and cleanly designed while also being interesting to look at. That is the essence of the collection – interesting aesthetics and clean designs over custom materials and stunning patterns and designs.
The Proenza Schouler x Barney holiday 2016 capsule collection is going to pull in every fan from both worlds to support this collaboration and it will lead to a consumer base of interestingly attired individuals who made each piece their own, as intended.
Photos courtesy of Barneys
Not entirely new, not entirely familiar, the newest Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2017 collection, presented at New York Fashion Week today afternoon, will surely not disappoint those who love the Maison’s signature designs, while at the same time exciting those who are looking for timeless classics infused with a more modern zest.
Proenza Schouler’s creative directors, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez put a lot of emphasis on the craftsmanship as well as the textures and architecture of the pieces this year, offering us sensual staples that could easily transition not only from day to night, but also from winter to spring and from summer to autumn.
The Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2017 collection looks, in fact, trapped between two seasons, with fresh trench coats, kimono jackets and cozy sweatshirts dominating the scene along with fresh skirts and sandals. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are offering us new takes on summer fashion, subverting the conventional norms by not only delivering heavier silhouettes, but darker shades too.
The line-up’s color palette features everything from black to white, from blue to red, with checkered patterns dynamically alternating each other, giving us strong urban-chic vibes.
The collection pays homage to the confident, cosmopolitan woman, mixing both urban-chic lines and cuts with romantic figures that will update the overall spring /summer 2017 season with loads of pleats and strategic cut-outs that sort of lighten up the more sharp, clean-cut lines.
A strict geometry is enhanced by the collection’s astounding variety of fabrics, as Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez went heavy on leather, furry embellishments and sleek, heavyweight fabrics. The latter were mainly utilized to translate conventionally menswear-inspired staples to more feminine ones, with boyfriend shirts and t-shirts likely to be the major sellouts at the stores as soon as the collection becomes available.
While creating staples for their Proenza Schouler woman, the designer duo also transported the collection to the Eighties and Nineties, making ample use of chokers and asymmetric cuts accordingly. As for the chokers, along with oversized earrings and platform pumps, their refined and thoughtful lines and motifs denote the designers’ willingness to focus more on the jewelry line, as they have been ramping up Proenza Schouler’s accessory business for a while now.
Another stand-out feature from the collection is to be found (literally) on the models’ bodies. To highlight the jewelry pieces, Proenza Schouler’s creative directors asked makeup artist Diane Kendal to paint the models’ ears with MAC’s Chromacake pigment, in either yellow or white. It is not the first time that bright pops of colors get applied on the models’ ears, but it is definitely surprising and kind of shocking to see such a bold [ear] makeup style at a Proenza Schouler runway show.
Are Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez slowly preparing us for Proenza Schouler’s most extravagant collection, one step at a time? We guess only time will tell at this point.
Photos courtesy of Vogue
Proenza Schouler is back on track with an all-girl squad for its fall 2016 fashion campaign shot in Los Angeles. Captured by Zoe Ghertner and styled by one of Proenza’s favorites – Marie Chaix, the Proenza Schouler fall 2016 ad campaign features stars Julia Bergshoeff, Selena Forrest, who also walked for the Proenza Schouler spring 2016 runway show, and habitué Alexa Peralta, who starred in three other ad campaigns for the fashion house.
The designer duo of the house wanted the campaign to fully represent the Proenza Schouler FW 2016-17 collection, both in all of its characteristic traits and philosophical motifs.
“Themes of control and release in its many forms were explored, as were references that influenced the collection’s development, namely that of American art of the Sixties and Seventies. Mostly, however, the aim was to capture an attitude of complete individualism, strength and a celebration of diverse beauty that feels deeply relevant in today’s world,” Proenza’s designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez said in an official press note.
On a gritty urban setting, namely ladders, fences and crumbling-looking warehouses, which create an appealing contrast with the collection’s clean cuts and neutral color palette, the campaign features all of the collection’s must-have staples, the most interesting out of which are surely the few yellow and red colored pieces.
Overall soft and with lots of references from the American art scene form the Sixties and Seventies, both the campaign and the line-up focus on wrapping and tying motifs, accentuating the tailored lines of the pieces by juxtaposing austere ladders and geometric-cut accessories either with deconstructed, contemporary suits, or sinuous dresses in crêpe fabrics.
Julia Bergshoeff, Selena Forrest and Alexa Peralta, gracefully perching on the tops of the ladders, are seen either showing off the collection’s double-breasted jacket plus the softer, billowy tailored pants, or one of the lineup’s more formally elegant proposals, namely an imposing off-yellow dress and a modern off-red mid-calf frock.
Besides individuality and diversity, the campaign celebrates one of the fashion house’s brand new It-items too: the Hava Bag. Said to be the natural evolution of the iconic PS1 handbag, the Proenza Schouler Hava Bag is definitely sharper and closer to the fashion house’s new aesthetics, as well as to the collection’s juxtaposing motifs.
For those who would love to have a look at the campaign’s printed version, it is going to appear in the September issues of Double, Love, Pop, CR, Self Service, Garage, Purple and the Gentlewoman.
Photos courtesy of Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler’s headquarters are in the process of fermentation these days, and their recent choices regarding the fashion calendar change will reveal their possible effectiveness in a few weeks. Back in December last year Proenza Schouler’s director of public relations revealed that the acclaimed fashion house wasn’t going to unveil their pre-fall 2016 collection until the line-up itself was close to hit stores circa in June. We now not only know that the Proenza Schouler pre-fall 2016 collection’s delivery is officially scheduled for June 1st, but that the full-loaded line-up was definitely worth the wait.
Regarding the choice to fully promote their creations a few months later than the usual schedule (pre-fall collections are usually presented in January), Proenza Schouler’s creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez proved to be literally willing to follow the fashion house’s ideology, which is never fearing evolution and being constantly eager to face challenges in the fashion industry.
“Obviously the system doesn’t make so much sense anymore. The way things are set up [in fashion] is part of a bigger conversation, but things need to change for now. We’re just looking at our own situation and trying to find something that makes sense for us. We’re not [instigating] this whole industry-wide shift. It makes sense to release a collection closer to when you can buy it. It’s as simple as that;” McCollough told WWD, while Hernandez also revealed that it will also prevent the major fast-fashion retailers from copying Proenza Schouler’s designs.
While only time will tell whether this was a good decision in terms of success not, what we can firmly state is that the Proenza Schouler pre-fall 2016 line-up indeed is a breath of fresh air, as it gives us certain pre-fall trends we have not seen anywhere else yet. What’s more, both Hernandez and McCollough chose to link this collection with the previous one, giving us a sort of fashion continuum made of decorative ribbons, flamenco vibes and tiered ruffles that will keep us in the iconic Proenza Schouler style from summer to winter.
The Proenza Schouler spring 2016 Cuban vibes are, in fact, easily to be seen here as well, and got graciously intertwined with those of the label’s fall 2016 collection (which exuded some clear Frank Stella artistic inspirations). This line-up focuses on the silhouettes, dynamically alternating A-lines with dropped down peplum cuts and hourglass figures. While Frank Stella’s geometric paintings added a minimalistic touch to most of the solid-colored ensembles, the Cuban inspirations got translated to fringed hems, lavish appliqués, sleeveless tunics and sleek fabrics, the vibrancy of which will let your figure literally shine.
Patchwork motifs and cozy coats are at the core of this collection, reminding us that the cold weather is indeed coming (in a few months, but still…). Nehru collars create a great contrast with the line-up’s retro prints, leaving us wondering whether all of these proposals are meant to be mix-and-matched or not (probably not, and we bet we can expect a lot of matching styles for the next months, as proven by the latest Gucci x Net-a-Porter capsule collection as well).
Hernandez and McCollough didn’t then forget to add a few Proenza Schouler signature details, such as the extremely intricate embroideries and draping that just give the collection an ultimate uber-chic touch.
Photos courtesy of WWD
Minimalist painter and printmaker Frank Stella might be crowned as this New York Fashion Week’s most celebrated artist, since another Fashion House took his iconic works as its lineup’s main source of inspiration. Still vivid in our mind is the Alice+ Olivia FW 2016-17 ready-to-wear line, namely the long-sleeve geometric-print gown inspired by Stella’s artwork, which managed to literally blow our minds away. If you crave for more Stella-inspired pieces, rejoice! Proenza Schouler’s creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez just released a well-served lineup for the fall/winter 2016-2017 season, which indeed directly draws inspiration from our the most beloved minimalistic artist of all time.
Proenza Schouler’s point of view on minimalism is, however, closer to deconstructivism, as the long and sinuous lines of the pieces got skillfully paired with layers of fabrics and lacing adornments. While the Alice + Olivia collection played more with cubistic influences, McCollough and Hernandez enjoyed developing the other side of deconstructivism, a.k.a. minimalism. Being a natural development of postmodern architecture in the Fifties, deconstructivism in fashion often showcases tight waistlines and geometrical cuts that somehow manage to balance the figures, minimizing the bare skins’ proportions and playing with tactical cut-outs and lateral slits. When not featuring tight waistlines, deconstructive fashion drops the waists displaying a sort of Twenties-inspired cubistic array of proposals, which could be particularly seen in Proenza Schouler’s newest FW 2016-17 rtw collection.
McCollough and Hernandez alternate hourglass silhouettes with dramatic drop-waist figures, which deconstruct the silhouettes from head to toe. That is translated to the deep plunging V-necklines most of the jumpsuits feature, although coming, of course, layered with long-sleeved shirts underneath them. Miniskirts and short shorts are not an option either, as the barest the collection gets when it channels geometrical cut-outs and wide (yet not-so-plunging) necklines.
The collection’s color palette is not that diverse either, although it includes appealing bursts of colors, such as yellow and red (which at this point are next fall’s sole protagonists). It focuses more on blacks, whites, beiges and, generally speaking, on different kinds of materials. Sleek fabrics interrupt the many silky proposals, without undermining the collection’s overall ethereal appeal. Refined gowns and floaty roomy pants might also play a huge role in this kind of angelic side of Proenza Schouler, which definitely helped the lineup get closer to Haute Couture rather than ready-to-wear.
To top it all off, McCollough and Hernandez charmed us with some well-tailored bisected jackets that will probably quickly become the collection’s winning pieces, and might be a good investment for those, who are looking for a staple to show off next October.
Photos courtesy of Vogue