Milan is not only known for the fabulous glamour, but also for standout beauty looks when it comes to runways. The fashion houses that presented their Spring 2019 collections made sure that they introduced some memorable makeup and hair moments this year. One of the best things about the upcoming spring is that all makeup and hair trends are easy to recreate. You won’t need a makeup pro or an appointment at the hair salon to copy these looks. It will be all about the eyes, starting with fierce eyeshadow colors, graphic eyeliner, to accenting the inner corner with statement shimmery shades.
Marni’s very first runway show under Francesco Risso’s creative direction has been finally unveiled at Milan Fashion Week, with his fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear fashions being all about mix-and-matched styles, patterns and references.
The Marni fall/winter 2017-18 rtw collection comes after former creative director Consuelo Castiglioni’s departure from the Italian fashion house in October last year, a choice that caused many heartaches and mixed emotions over the future of Marni and its new creative director as well. Francesco Risso, who graduated from Central St. Martins in London and has a resume that is made in Italy indeed (prior to Marni he worked at Anna Molinari and Prada), had and will have big shoes to fill.
Designing for Marni is not for the faint of heart for sure, as the fashion house is the place to go for some of the most elegantly eclectic, if not even eccentric pieces, with innovation and boundary-pushing fashions being at the core of the house itself. Marni was founded by Castiglioni herself, meaning that many still associate the brand with the talented woman.
So, what was Risso’s first approach to the upcoming fall/winter 2017-18 rtw season? First of all, Risso’s care for the Marni-approved offbeat visions appeared instantly clear. For this Marni fall/winter 2017 collection, Risso focused on unconventional patterns, such as intimate wear worn as outerwear, with both Sixties-inspired vibes and Seventies-inspired dancing queen motifs dominating the scene.
Risso’s vintage visions on Marni also took a step into the Nineties fashions, which subtly infused the entire collection with pencil cuts, oversized figures and layered silhouettes. The main motif that ran through each one of the staples was that of the color-themed proposals, with all of the items being presented in blocks of four shades. Francesco Risso played with chromatic motifs unveiling looks in gray-green, pink, blue or yellow, interrupting the line with few rusty reds, blues and color-blocking patterns, such as red and purple.
The Marni fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection featured brown shades too, which were used for the furry embellishments and appliqués of the staples (Marni will probably never stop proposing fur for its seasonal collections).
Innerwear aside, the Marni fall/winter 2017-18 rtw collection was also a place, wherein winter-approved garments were easily to be found, such as raincoats, warm hats and fur jackets.
Last but not least, Francesco Risso’s debut with Marni will be vividly remembered for the shoe line, as the Italian fashion designer completed most of the looks with intricately adorned sandals that featured Art Deco-inspired heels and, most of the times, geometrically elongated soles.
Photos courtesy of Vogue
Back in mid-October, Marni teamed up with Zalando to create a capsule shoe collection. Now, less than a month later, the Italian luxury label has announced a new collaboration with Yoox – Marni x Yoox holiday 2016 collection that will produce a special capsule line of party looks available at Yoox.com.
Marni is working fast and hard not to get its face online, unlike its past way of life, where discretion and staying out of public eye was key; teaming up with Yoox is the best way to do that, since the online retailer specializes in the merging between fashion and digital art. If you want to establish an online presence, Yoox is a great open door for that.
The collection itself is spot on for what you would expect from a Marni x Yoox collection. There’s the beautiful sophistication we have come to love from a luxury fashion collection as well as the great graphic printing and structure we love to see from leaders of digital sales; there are pieces for all seasons, in simple, staple shapes that you’ll want to stock up on; Castiglioni’s iconic silhouettes and patterns were a focus of this collection, so longtime consumers will be especially pleased with this collaboration.
A beautiful artistic piece is a simple dress with a paint-motif across the front; it is cut at sections and shifted around, creating a great illusion. Louder pieces includ a floral dress overlaid with a bold polka dot and an orange weave shirt that has your head spinning.
A geometric diamond dress has the same choppy cut detailing as the paint dress, but in a more mature way – it is the pieces such as this where the classic Marni style of sophistication shines through. There is a stunning print at its core, and it still has merged well with Yoox’s digital art finesse.
Other silhouettes that are available in the Marni x Yoox holiday 2016 collaboration include a variety of outerwear, tops, skirts, and more dresses that promise to have you covered through all of the seasons in the coming year. You’ll find pricing for the garments to be at a price point of €110 to €450.
The fashion group Renzo Rosso chairs, OTB, acquired a Marni stake back in 2013; in two years, it accrued 100% interest, according to a report from 2015. Upon seeing these numbers and this result, naturally the label wanted to move for expansion, and we couldn’t be happier.
We’ve loved seeing Marni collaborations, especially the graphic detailing of this new line with Yoox. The drastic switch into this level of print usage falls at a time of transition for the brand, as founder and creative director Consuelo Castiglioni announced her departure at the end of October. The label, renowned for its sophistication, is now going to be making steps to thrive in the digital age; Francesco Risso will be coming in to take up Castiglioni’s position.
Photos courtesy of Yoox
Well-known Italian fashion house Marni has been run by its founder, Consuelo Castiglioni since the beginning back in 1994 with her husband. Even once Marni was acquired by OTB (Only the Brave) back in 2012, Consuelo Castiglioni maintained her position as the creative director. She has grown the brand from one that provided ideal options to wear with fur to strong patterned ready-to-wear clothing that is easily noticeable as a Marni piece.
The fashion line has managed several successful collaborations and even launched the menswear line in 2007. The silhouettes have a very ‘newly designed’ vintage feel that has garnered a dedicated following for the fashion line in sixteen different countries, where they have licensed stores and many more thanks to their online sales.
According to the Marni press release, Consuelo Castiglioni’s decision to step down as the creative director of Marni was of a personal nature. The new creative director successor for Marni has been named though: 33-year-old Francesco Risso.
Francesco Risso has a strong, established background in fashion, from his education in Italy at Polimoda Fashion School, then transferred to the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. Finally, he graduated from Central St. Martins in London, following the impressive footsteps of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.
As an Italian Fashion House, Marni was more than happy to put up Italian Francesco Risso into the creative director position. His resume also includes working for Anna Molinari, Malo and Prada.
OTB is very excited by the change as well with the president Renzo Rosso stating: “The world pays tribute to the original vision of Consuelo, and to a unique brand which we are proud to have in our group. I wish her the very best.”
He further added: “I am happy to welcome Francesco, whose talent will contribute to writing a new chapter in the history of this house which is Italian at heart and global in spirit. I am confident that the creative team and the management of Marni, which have contributed to this success, will continue to make this brand reach exciting new goals.”
Consuelo Castiglioni released the heartfelt statement: “These were hectic and exciting years which absorbed all of my energies to create a project I am proud of. Thanks also to the constant support of my family who allowed me to stay true to my idea, I built a brand with a precise and recognizable identity. The time has now come to dedicate myself to my private life. I thank all the people who believed in this project and who, with loyal dedication, have helped me along this fantastic journey.”
There has also been word that Consuelo Castiglioni’s children Giovanni and Carolina will be stepping down from their roles in operations, special projects, children’s wear and communications. Francesco Risso is set to take over immediately, with the first full effects of his leadership showing up in Milan in 2017.
Photo courtesy of Zimbio
Set to hit Zalando’s online store on October 27th, the Marni x Zalando collaboration is expected to be a fantastic offering in the world of footwear. Cleverly, Marni utilized four very popular, key brands offered by Zalando footwear for this collaboration, ensuring that the products of this union would have an avid audience.
According to Jolan Smit, who is the global head brand communications for Zalando, the E-tailer feels that “together with Marni and the partner brands, we wanted to go further and do something that stood out, was unexpected and disruptive.”
This was done with the four choices made by Marni – Dr. Martens loafers, Timberlands, Vans and Reeboks. There will be 19 models total for men and women in the Marni x Zalando fall 2016 exclusive footwear collection and will be promoted by Marni and photographer Philippe Jarrigeon through outdoor print and digital ads, social media presence boosted by key bloggers and online video.
Carolina Castiglioni, Director of Special Projects for Marni told WWD: “The collaboration with Zalando is an opportunity to experience and appreciate the Marni aesthetic from a new perspective. Zalando’s digital approach has stimulated our creativity in a different way. The common idea was to give styles with very well known and established personalities a special Marni touch.”
The Marni touch is greatly appreciated and in this case very highly anticipated. The styling is clean from the sneak peeks offered and the varying textures and shades used are already being integrated into plans to update individual wardrobes. The signature Marni fringe will be seen on several of the shoes as well.
Zalando is a German based multi faceted cross platform online store that is well known for their brilliant online shopping policies and happy customers. Zalando has fantastic shipping and return policies, shopping benefits and quick, on time delivery. Inspired initially by Zappos, Zalando began by selling shoes, but now sells clothing, shoes and accessories in 15 different countries.
Marni is a fashion line that is part of the OTB Group and is in good company with Diesel and Viktor & Rolf. Marni is known for amazing collaborations and ‘European Bohemian’ style. Often called off beat feminine and quirky, the aesthetic for Marni is well known for being interesting and complex to say the least.
The ready-to-wear clothing line and accessories that include handbags, eyewear and jewelry are in great and steady demand. The clever use of patterns and silhouettes is significant and easy to spot as Marni designs within the brand, thus the collaboration between Marni and Zalando is sure to have a wide and avid audience.
This is not the first collaboration that Marni has done, as Marni and H&M provided an interested set of options in 2012. In 2006 there was a Marni and Kamei Proact Corporation collaboration to provide a sneaker collection. 2010 featured several collaborations that included one with The Rug Company for inspiring carpets with Marni prints.
Interestingly enough there was even a collaboration in 2010 between Marni and Laduree to create an incredibly special, limited edition box. This collaboration between Marni and Zalando is set to launch on Zalando exclusively on October 27th, 2016.
Photo courtesy of Zalando
An artful sense of elegant utilitarianism wafted as soon as the Marni spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection was presented earlier this morning by fashion designer Consuelo Castiglioni, during this Milan Fashion Week.
Marni’s presentation was a highly anticipated runway show, as the Italian label has built a reputation as one of the most consistent names for what concerns both the men’s and womenswear fashion, throughout these 22 years in the industry. With the previous Marni spring 2016 collection almost entirely dedicated to bold patterns of bright colors, everybody was wondering whether Castiglioni would follow a similar path for this collection or not.
While always keeping Marni’s signature clean cuts and minimalistic figures at the core of the garments’ philosophy, Castoglioni opted for an almost solely monochrome color palette this time around, with a creamy white hue dominating the entire collection. The line-up featured a few patterns as well, the colors and abstract motifs of which reminded us of Jackson Pollock’s renowned action paintings during his so-called “drip period”.
In displaying its shades and blocks of colored patterns, the Marni spring 2017 collection was incredibly coherent too. Consuelo Castiglioni carefully divided her lineup in three sections, with the first one focusing on whites and creamy ecru hues, the second one on abstract patterns, and the last one on darker shades. With the first part looking as a dream array of black canvas, the second and third ones seemed to be the natural evolution of Castiglioni’s creative stream of consciousness, and the final result surely left those who attended the show speechless.
In a similar architecturally pleasing way, extremely coherent were the figures used. Blending in deconstructed silhouettes with more structured lines, for her Marni spring 2017 collection Consuelo Castiglioni managed to mix utilitarian details, such as conceptual pockets with minimalistic, clean-cut lines, with playful ruffles and jabot details, creating an appealing contrast with the collection’s cloth belts.
Such belts, in return, helped the staples become highly functional and flattering, elongating the figures too. Oversized peplum figures and exaggerated puffed-up shoulders created a similar elongating effect, to the pleasure of those who favor extreme minimalism over (slightly) accessorized staples.
The collection, which strongly focused on loungewear-inspired wrapped coats, also featured revisited versions of the wrapped dress, with the airy lines creating a dynamic sense of motion with their textured fabrics and abstract designs.
As the show drew to a close, Castiglioni treated us to a few urban-chic, layered black evening dresses, with off-the-shoulder necklines infusing the entire collection with mysterious and fascinating Nineties vibes.
Consuelo Castiglioni, who received no formal fashion training before founding Marni, surprised us, once again, with an extremely polished collection smartly packaged with strong fashion.
Photos courtesy of Vogue
Italian luxury house Marni has finally unveiled its fall 2016 fashion campaign, and its pictures are infused with a mystique sense of beauty that is perfectly balanced by both the collection’s staples and the campaign’s location. Shot by Hellen Van Meene, styled by Lucinda Chambers and supervised by art director Giovanni Bianco along with his GB65 studio, the campaign translates the literary genre of Magic Realism into fashion photography, evoking a captivating sense of abandonment and decadence we still had to see in a fashion campaign.
The Marni fall 2016 campaign nostalgically waves summer goodbye, attracting us to the autumnal earth hues and gentle, more relaxed lines.
Dutch photographer Hellen Van Meene, who is internationally famous for being able to recreate out-of-this world atmosphere and playing with the lights, appears to be perfectly in tune with the GB65 team’s innovative spirit and cosmopolitan soul, which often took its members to collaborate on numerous multinational projects, such as those with singer Madonna.
Marni’s seven-picture fall 2016 campaign, along with its ethereal models, focuses on all of the little details that made Marni’s FW 2016-17 runway collection stand out of the crowd, such as patchwork motifs, flared cuts and clean-cut accessories. Posing in different positions and perfectly balanced in their setting, the models showcase the clothing staples, and the collection’s accessory line, which is composed of It bags, knee-high leather boots and elegant pumps.
Designed by Consuelo Castiglioni, the collection included oversized, heavyweight trench coats as well as single-breasted coats with ruffled hems, the latter of which particularly made many fans hopelessly fall in love with the line.
Like seen throughout the runway show, the campaign’s pictures also play with contrasts, both in terms of the selected garments and the settings chosen for showcasing the looks. The room’s darkness and romantically aseptic environment has been juxtaposed with the cheerful, yet somehow always gloomy proposals, while the accessories found their contrasting counterpart thanks to the velvet furniture and wooden tables.
The models’ looks exude similar romantic vibes too. With hair and makeup respectively styled by Sam McKnight and Tom Pecheaux, the models all channel an au naturel look that focuses on almost bare faces and long, straight, tight hair parted in the middle.
Last but not least, the Renaissance-inspired allure Castiglioni infused the collection with is here seen thanks to Hellen Van Meene’s terrific skills when it comes to lights, which in this specific case enhanced the accessory proposals even more.
All of the pieces from Marni’s FW 2016-17 line-up are now available at ModaOperandi.com.
Photos courtesy of Marni
Marni has started its triumphant path through the fashion industry to support a fur production company and to design pieces wearable with fur, but it so happened that Consuelo Castiglioni’s geometrical shapes and unique colorblock solutions are now calling the tune, while furry details appear here and there to make sophisticated samples together. The Marni fall/winter 2016-2017 RTW collection, unveiled several hours ago, came up with yet another interesting fur-fabric contrast. We did not see so much fur playing throughout the whole collection, but quite sufficient to hark back to the Italian brand’s origins and quite sufficient to keep female bodies snug as a bug in a rug.
It was those geometrical shapes, oversized silhouettes and balloon sleeves that were playing the first fiddle at today’s delicious treat a la Marni and of course the vibrant colorblock versions able to spin millions of heads year in, year our. The show opened with a rare mishmash of colors and shapes – an ochre sweater with half moon hems and 3/4 sleeves was the best design chosen to show off balloon sleeves and tiny turtleneck of the true blue shirt worn underneath, while the front-pleat dark trousers with a wide belt and cuffs set the ball rolling for a new trend to embrace our legs come the cold seasons. There were also earth yellow, dark green and white versions, as well as a sapphire blue sample with a high waist and a smattering of checkered models with short cuffs.
Consuelo Castiglioni’s flair for style gave birth to some pieces with surface suggestive of crumpled paper. Just throw a glance at that black-white floral shirt with balloon sleeves showing many folders all over the map, while on a mini dress with black-white abstract motifs those chaotic folders were becoming more and more. Half moon designs were occurring not only on cashmere sweaters and furry capes but also on a series of scarlet midi skirts and dresses.
It was really quite inspiring to see the vibrant colorblocks dreamt up through different combinations – sapphire blue pants with Venetian red sweater, Venetian red skirt with a fallow shirt or hunter green pants with a white shirt plus an ochre cape. But the coloblocks via prints were even more exciting and enlivening. There was a shirt and a mini dress covered with white, burgundy, yellow, black and blue diamond like prints, a midi dress with the ruler sleeves and a skirt with high waist all demonstrating green, yellow, brown, grey, red and blue abstract geometrical shapes and an autumnal brown outerwear with some psychedelic shapes wrapped with yellow, white, blue and red.
Furry details were arriving in fits and starts. We saw a modicum of chocolate brown cropped overlays and capes with half moon designs, an elegant minimalistic jacket and a couple of black or white collars on grey checkered coats with red and blue splashed prints in the centre.
Psychedelic prints were throwing us into equilibrium, especially those white splashes squirted on shimmering velvet in navy blue, but if you are hankering after more powerful emotions go for leather to get those pieces with some parts all encrusted with oversized sequins in yellow and blue. Want more? No sweat, some melted plastic particles in blue and black splattered all over mixed with intricate embroidery and beads.
Photos couretsy of Vogue
The Marni spring/summer 2016 campaign is all about the simplicity of nature. Supermodel Suvi Koponen was cast for the photoshoot, which was shot by London-based photographer Tom Hunter. Lucinda Chambers styled the shots, and Sam McKnight and Tom Pecheux kept the hair and makeup, respectively, looking fresh and ready for each shot. Finally, Silvia Farago was at the helm of production.
With the vibrant, modern theme of the clothing on the runway, a simple foliage setting wasn’t exactly what we expected from Marni’s ad campaign this season, but the result was actually quite beautiful. The photographer relied heavily on the juxtaposition created between the nature and the bold colors of the apparel. Some clothes in the collection were artistic at the core, and these would have been the looks to make the most sense in a setting such as this, but the label chose to send out its brightest, most innovative pieces. The clothes are anything but embedded in these shots, forcing themselves as the focal points. So the most striking part of the photoshoot is sure to be the clothes, which is likely what the label was looking to accomplish.
We were definitely curious as to what this season’s campaign would entail, since there were mixed reviews toward the Marni SS 2016 RTW collection itself when it was released. But this certainly wasn’t what we had in mind. And this campaign, despite its beauty, still contains that level of uncertainty. Nothing about the campaign was necessarily bad or poorly executed, but sometimes it is difficult to decide whether or not any given shot actually works in favor of the brand.
This was especially strong with garments like the deconstructed polka dot/mesh dress, which was the strongest in the collection, but seemed the most out of place within the setting of the tree. In some regard, it was successful in that it’s eye catching, looks great on the model, and is able to align itself with the trunk of the tree. On the other hand, the setting seems to be disrupted by the jarring technologically-created print of the dress, not to mention the color. So for the most part, the garments benefitted from the stark difference by making them more noticeable and striking, but they ultimately did seem out of place.
Needless to say, each shot was beautiful in its own way. Regardless of questionable decisions, the clothes looked great on Koponen, and some of the darker or subtler garments looked lovely against the backdrop without disturbing the peace. I’d say Marni gets a thumbs up for making the campaign better than the photoshoot, but part of me wishes the garments had been given a more similar stage so we could have seen these clothes at their best. Hopefully the brand pulls out something great for their next ad campaign, because we know exactly how amazing a Marni collection/campaign combo can be.
Photos courtesy of Marni
Asymmetrical skirts with pompoms on the edges of the zigzags anyone? We are rather enjoying the latest in Marni collections to be revealed, just as we enjoy nearly any Marni collection what it comes to the market. The fashion world simply would not be the same without having Marni involved. The Marni pre-fall 2016 collection seems to have a focus on angularity and sweet femininity, something very different from the gender-blending scheme that Houses like Gucci have employed.
Words that pop into mind to describe the collection would be languid, dynamic, instinctive and rational really. It is a whole bunch of opposites that come together rather perfectly, with a certain quirkiness that gives it its specific charm and allure. There is certain elegance to the pieces that we cannot deny and that is more or less what makes Marni great. The play on emotions is profound, even if it done in a rather subtle manner.
There are a few looks that really stick out. Other than the pompom endings to the asymmetrical skirt, there are the ballerina shoes that we have fallen head over heels for. We kind of really like that powdery blue coat worn over an interesting pair of cinched ankle trousers, pressed down the center, and a simple black turtleneck tucked in. We notice the culottes and cannot disregard their specific charm, nor can we turn a blind eye to that long-sleeve dress that falls at midi height to the knees and has a matching scarf to go with the interesting geometric patterning over a blue background. We see lean volumes throughout and the asymmetry seems to be a norm here; there are coiling frills and pointy hems, roomy slacks and a touch of masculinity to the generally overtly feminine line-up.
The Marni pre-fall 2016 collection is all about hybrids really. There is a dress that is like an apron but also includes a vest feature combination is sliced into panels for example and curves gracefully down the back. There are felted wool jackets with large lapels that are dynamically cut. There is a mash-up in patchwork to be found, along with macro flounces on tunics and vests, and some creative jumbo palazzo pants.
Glitter is definitely one of the year’s top trends, which makes paillettes catching the light over a dark palate all the more pleasing to look at. We can easily find furs among the collection, and some interesting fractured elements, kind of like how one would look at things through a kaleidoscope.
The Marni woman is a complex character to say the least and she wears her complexity with great style. It is why no fashion season is complete without a Marni line-up. Between the prints and the cuts and the general air of wealth to be found, wealth in the simplicity of femininity for the most port, it is a wonder we are not storming the stores to grab practically every last piece for ourselves at the moment.
Photos courtesy of Vogue