Lanvin’s legacy and timeless soul just came to life today at Hotel de Ville in Paris, with creative director Bouchra Jarrar’s aesthetics for the latest Lanvin fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection being all about femininity and soigné vibes.
Jarrar, who became Lanvin’s brand new creative director exactly one year ago, after Alber Elbaz had stepped down from his position, has so far never missed a chance to celebrate founder Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy, with her very first collection showcasing the perfect Lanvin-approved juxtapositions between the conventionally feminine and more androgynous aesthetics. Instead of focusing on the harmony of the opposites, for her Lanvin fall/winter 2017-18 rtw collection, Jarrar opted for a line-up that was solely all about feminine figures, entitling the runway show as “Lanvin Femme”.
In doing so, she inevitably infused the entire collection with strong empowering notes, the outcomes of which are extremely meaningful for Jarrar herself. Jarrar, like Jeanne Lanvin, is both a creative and business savvy mind, as she not only spent most of her life designing staples, but also managing her eponymous line. Taking care of a business needs a lot of passion, strength and willpower, which are all messages she tried to convey and translate to fashion through this latest collection of hers.
“What a force she was,” Jarrar explained to W Magazine, referring to Jeanne Lanvin. “In just 40 years, the things she brought to fashion were enormous. I’ve got a lot of work to do.”
And though she surely has big shoes to fill, we could easily state she is definitely off to a good start (both thanks to Lanvin and her namesake label), with this latest Lanvin fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection being one of the best examples.
All in all, the line-up was extremely harmonious and coherent, with a color palette that was all about crisp whites, soft pinks and sensual blacks. The fabrics were linearly alternated as well, with the sheer, embroidered patterns balancing the heavyweight slick fabrics, and with the metallic patterns lightening up the heavily pleated cuts.
The Lanvin fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection also showed a counterbalanced array of separates and evening dresses, treating us to a big array of proposals to wear everywhere, during any occasion. For this reason, long dresses, roomy trousers and elegant jackets were the collection’s absolute must-haves, meant to be mix-and-matched with one another or worn separately with anything we may already own. Last but not least, Jarrar also treated us to diva-like frocks that were red carpet-ready indeed, and which probably exuded the collection’s Femme vibes most.
With Jarrar being all about single stories and sources of inspiration, and with the past collections having been inspired by androgyny and femininity accordingly, should we expect fully mannish-inspired, or even genderless aesthetics for the next Lanvin runway show?
Photos courtesy of Vogue
After unveiling the acclaimed Lanvin spring 2017 collection at Paris Fashion Week last September, fashion designer Bouchra Jarrar is back on track with her first ever Lanvin pre-fall collection, which just added its most androgynously feminine touch to the transitional season.
Jarrar’s Lanvin pre-fall 2017 collection is also an extremely important line, because, as many have been stating ever since Alber Elbaz left the French house, Lanvin is currently undergoing an identity (and financial) crisis, with its notorious aesthetics being at risk. However, just by looking at the very first proposals from this latest collection, Bouchra Jarrar’s present and future visions on Lanvin appear clearer and more defined, especially when it comes to the evening proposals.
“We are working in a very energetic and constructive way on building the foundations for the house’s new start. I am tackling this revival head-on and with a lot of enthusiasm,” Bouchra Jarrar declared backstage.
Haute couture enthusiast Bouchra Jarrar infused each one of her designs with strong tailoring motifs and versatility, never missing a chance to showcase her old hand at high-end fashion, while keeping in mind the collection’s ready-to-wear target. Her aesthetics thus appear to be cozy yet soigné, a style that we will very likely become familiar with in the seasons to come.
“I don’t like the word casual — I don’t even know what it means — but you can be chic and relaxed at the same time,” she explained.
In creating her aesthetics, Jarrar mixed strong androgynous fashions (mostly suit jackets) with more conventionally feminine garments, with each one of the contrasting motifs meant to be easily mixed and matched with one another. Lanvin’s pre-fall 2017 woman is, in fact, completely in charge of her style, with endless possibilities to choose from.
By building up a collection that mainly consists of separates, Bouchra Jarrar made it possible for us to refresh our wardrobes with essential staples that, contemporary vibes aside, even treat us to standard Lanvin aesthetics. While looking for inspiration for her Lanvin pre-fall 2017 collection, Jarrar dived into Jeanne Lanvin’s visions from the late Thirties, which included primitive black and white prints that got revisited through more modern fabrics and cuts here, even helping Lanvin’s brand new creative director pay homage to the mansion’s astounding legacy.
As for the collection’s other motifs and staples, suit jackets, modernized iconic Lanvin-worthy prints and tulle gowns aside, Jarrar focused on hot trends, such as velvet suits, zebra-printed parkas, long, sinuous dresses and classic georgette shirts, often embellishing the staples with one-of-a-kind details including Thirties-inspired feathers and pearls.
Under these premises, we are really looking forward to Jarrar’s forthcoming Lanvin fall/winter 2017-18 runway show!
Photos courtesy of Vogue
Very few collections get so much anticipation as Lanvin’s, especially when it comes to the Lanvin spring/summer ready-to-wear ones. One of the Paris Fashion Week’s most iconic runway show, the Lanvin spring/summer 2017 collection was filled with even more anticipation and expectations, as it was creative director Bouchra Jarrar’s first show with the French mansion.
Showcased at the majestic Hôtel de Ville in Paris, Jarrar’s first-ever Lanvin spring/summer 2017 line-up was all about elegance and flowy fabrics, such as silk and satin, with purely feminine looks alternating the more mannish-inspired ones. Even when appropriating menswear patterns, Bouchra Jarrar managed to keep everything polished to the nines, perfectly encapsulating Lanvin’s essence in an astounding 49-piece line.
As perfectly summed up in the show’s notes, in fact, Bouchra Jarrar has been “building clothes around the body, unveiling and veiling the silhouette,” to “cross boarders between femininity and masculinity.”
In doing so, she somehow managed to keep a strong, sensual synergy between both the masculine and feminine worlds, with voluminous lines and lightweight fabrics that caress the bodies being at the core of the entire collection. Although not structured in lines or cuts, Lanvin’s spring/summer 2017 collection was indeed structured in its runway show, with Bouchra Jarrar choosing to showcase her pieces in blocks of heavily coherent features.
Overall neutral in palette, aside from a bright blue recurring pattern, seen both within the garments and accessories, the Lanvin spring/summer 2017 line-up’s first part is all about white suits, either worn with striped button-down tunics, or more heavily accessorized with ties, floral appliqués or even military-inspired brooches. The second part of the collection was, on the other hand, more urban-inspired, with sleek materials being used to create ultra-confident total-black looks.
The collection’s third part was, however, the most risqué, with see-through bright blue patterns sensually baring the models’ skins (we saw a similar material yesterday, in the Saint Laurent spring/summer 2017 collection).
The forth and firth sections got back to the patterns of the first and second parts accordingly, just to evolve them in their most urban-chic and haute couture way. While the forth part let Bouchra Jarrar experiment with big floral patterns, loungewear-inspired pieces and even more androgynous looks, the collection’s fifth section was specifically meant to take us on a fancy night out, with floor-length evening dresses dominating the scene.
As usual when it comes to Lanvin, the collection treated us to particularly appealing accessories, especially seen in the shoe line. Although focusing on high heels, Jarrar took the time to create ultra-chic, super-cozy beaded flat sandals, the elegant embroideries of which are already on everyone’s lips.
Such a variegated, yet elegantly and meticulously coherent collection was then surely enhanced by the cast of the models of the moment – Sasha Pivovarova, Imaan Hammam, Guinevere van Seenus, Arizona Muse, Liu Wen, and Karlie Kloss, who surely helped Jarrar feel even more confident of her grandiose debut with Lanvin.
Photos courtesy of Vogue
It is going to be an important week for Bouchra Jarrar, who currently has all eyes on her due to her newly released Lanvin resort 2017 collection. While debuting as a creative director of one of the world’s most acclaimed and oldest fashion houses in general is surely not an easy task, doing it with a resort collection might be even more stressing. Bouchra Jarrar, who has been slowly and steadily ascending the fashion industry for a few years now, was appointed as Lanvin’s creative director back in March 2016, after Alber Elbaz’s departure (who worked at the fashion house for 14 years in a row).
Jarrar presented her Lanvin resort 2017 collection in New York, miles away from home, showcasing a line-up that perfectly mixes Lanvin’s legacy and signature styles with the French designer’s clean cuts and minimalistic designs. Her educational background includes both designing apparel and jewelry pieces, and for her resort creations she infused signature lines and cuts with classic couture shapes from the Fifties and the Sixties. Her ethos is a refined, sophisticated and classic one, yet with an eased-up, modern twist.
“Bouchra Jarrar is a talented and visionary designer. She is the obvious choice for Lanvin. Her talent, her high standards and her mastery of cuts and fabrics will bring a breath of freshness and modernity into the house, while respecting its soul as the oldest Paris fashion house, a symbol of French elegance,” Lanvin’s chief executive officer Michèle Huiban told Business of Fashion, unknowingly describing this Lanvin resort 2017 collection too.
Just by looking at the proposals, a sense of modernity, fluidity, freshness and elegance takes the lead, catapulting us in a fairy tale where both the old and the new peacefully coexist as the main protagonists. The line-up features solid-colored, fluid haute couture-esque pieces, both androgynous and uber-feminine, as well as delicate pops of colors either in the form of romantic patterns or vibrant monochrome designs.
A goddess-like floor-length gown with jabot detailing alternates gently tailored mannish suits, while a princess trench coat is seen combined with a pair of somehow extremely elegant flat sandals. Button-down Oxford shirts, along with their textured fabrics, create a pleasing contrast with the sheer fluid fabrics of the dresses, transporting the collection to the Sixties, when the feminine ensembles were artfully interrupted by the very first mannish proposals.
A logo Jarrar found in Lanvin’s archives celebrates Jeanne Lanvin through the foulards and shirts, ultimately confirming Jarrar’s willingness to enhance and never underestimate the house’s legacy.
“Jeanne Lanvin always worked on the logo. It was a kind of tribute to her that I wanted to do,” she told Vogue, further explaining that the collection is not for her, but rather “for all women. I understand the power of clothes. It’s why I give a lot of attention to proportions; I like to optimize them. I want women to be beautiful, that’s my job.”
As for the Lanvin resort 2017 collection, chances are that it will be shown during the July couture shows in Paris. Let’s keep our fingers crossed!
Photos courtesy of Vogue
Update: The news has been confirmed and Bouchra Jarrar has been named the new Lanvin creative director for the womenswear line.
We’ve all known Lanvin as the ultimate king of playful cocktail dresses, ones that turn heads and cause discussions long after you’ve left. Well, all this might be changing very soon! We’ve developed our perceptions of Lanvin mainly due to the designs by Alber Elbaz, who essentially crafted Lanvin’s reputation for the past 15 years. But since we watched Elbaz leave Lanvin in October 2015, we are now expecting a major shift in the brand’s signature style. The latest rumors have just confirmed our expectations.
Lanvin is said to hire the French-Moroccan designer Bouchra Jarrar, whose aesthetic is far from being even close to Elbaz’s fashion choices. While also feminine and elegant, Jarrar’s designs are less playful and are instead meant for the strong working woman, whose list of priorities doesn’t have flirty playfulness in the top 3. Finishing her latest collaboration with Mauboussin for a jewelry line (set for release in July), Jarrar stated that she is open for new collaborations with other fashion labels. Was that a subconscious hint on her future plans?
In an interview with Women’s Wear Daily last year, Bouchra Jarrar gave her own take on her design style and what she’s looking to accomplish with it. “For me, fashion is first and foremost a matter of proportions — the lines and the cut,” she said. “My objective is a defined look because our lives today are very fast, we are working women, we’re strong, we’re self-sufficient, and my clothes have to bring something — power, but without being aggressive, a defined look. It’s a look, it’s elegance, it’s Paris. It’s really an attitude.”
Such a strong attitude can’t be overpowered by Elbaz’s heritage. But we are hyped and excited for Jarrar’s potential and can’t wait to see it on the runway. It is also the time to inject new breath into Lanvin, a 125-year old fashion brand that has lately been going through financial difficulties due to fierce competition.
Interestingly, both designers, Elbaz and Jarrar, have Moroccan descent and it seems at least noteworthy to mention the coincidence. Despite that, if hired for the position, Jarrar will most probably tone down Lanvin’s flirtatious reputation and invest in more structured and quality designs. With Jarrar’s designs, women will be able to appreciate her skills by actually wearing the garments, not just looking at them. Why? Because her work is all about the construction and the fit.
According to the sources of this rumor, Lanvin is negotiating the job only for the women’s clothing line, opting for more autonomy for the men’s line. In the past, the men’s line was managed by Elbaz. With the future separation and the introduction of new aesthetics by Jarrar, Lanvin can undergo a serious branding change.
Lanvin hasn’t released an official statement and has informed the media that it does not comment on rumors. Jarrar was also unavailable to elaborate on the matter. If not Jarrar, many are speculating that Lanvin will go for a fresh talent and has reportedly considered Simone Rocha, Huishan Zhang and Erdem Moralioglu for the job. It looks like we can’t do anything but wait while the label closes the contract with Jarrar, and we’ll just keep our best guesses going.
Photo courtesy of Brownsfashion
Ever since last October, when we learnt Alber Elbaz was leaving Lanvin, we have been wondering what route the Fashion House will take in future. Today evening, Lanvin Studio, the label’s in-house atelier unveiled the first ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week without Alber Elbaz at the helm, and apparently social media is reacting negatively to the Lanvin fall/winter 2016-2017 collection. We surely miss Elbaz’ elaborate and opulent designs, but certainly also love an array of designs we saw today at the show.
Lanvin generally has a tendency to make us want more and more and more, but really, it was a superb presentation of the 2016-2017 top looks that really made fall and winter appear immaculately stylish. The oversized blazer that the show opened with had a single button keeping it closed, shiny grey with black lapels and detailing, the nature of it showing off quite a bit of chest underneath, plunging low to the abdomen. The matching skirt had sculptured frills at the ends, only adding to its masculine meets feminine appeal.
We saw lacy blouses tucked into extra high-waists, the necks high and the hems cropped around the ankles. There were dresses with laser-cut designs that really brought a futuristic mode to the catwalk, while the peplum corset tops were rather cool unto themselves. There was a lot of shine overall, and it was easy to love that as well, for the fall and winter are generally dull and a touch of shimmer can only make things look better instead of it appearing overdone.
Throughout the Lanvin fall 2016 collection, we noticed a good amount of V cuts to the necklines, with some cleavage shown off, but not enough to appear trashy. On the contrary, it was all super classy. Midi hems that ended under mid-calf and above the ankles were common enough, while we noticed simpler cuts in general used for a more comfortable array of looks. When it comes to slits, the center appeared at least once, though we saw a good amount of slouchy pants as well that gathered around the ankles.
There were 46 different outfits shown off, with the theme seemingly being modern meets the future, while taking bits and pieces from the past. It is rather interesting how Lanvin manages to weave it all in so seamlessly, bringing in designs that encompass the embroidered and the simple, the different materials lending to each ensemble a breath of fresh air.
Ruffles in horizontal lines appear here in there, sideways cuts to the hems of blazers take over from time to time, shiny dresses give off a gala meets club air, and the furrier pieces remind us that while winter has currently reached its end, it will be starting again in a few months and we should be fashionably ready for that eventuality.
When it comes to the colors utilized here, we fall madly and deeply in love with the dusty lilac dress with the translucent skirts and the beautifully printed top region, separated by a thin white belt, a fur stole over the shoulder and a royal look to the models’ eyes. It’s as if a fairy tale princess out of a science fiction creation has come to life, more modern in appearance than the classic tales of old.
Single shoulder dresses also appear, though we have never been big fans of those. Though asymmetry is in style, general human beings are programmed to prefer the symmetrical instead. We can expect to see a few Lanvin dresses appearing here and there on the red carpets as well soon enough.
Photos courtesy of NowFashion, Vogue
New York is full of the hustle and bustle of city life, but what really triumphs in the city that never sleeps is the world of fashion, where each collection release is accompanied by major interest. With the fashion world also comes major intrigue, including the changes in creative directors that put viable new faces in the forefront, creating designs that the crowds value most. At Lanvin, with Alber Elbaz no longer heading the creative department, it was a mystery as to what we would be seeing for the pre-fall creations. Chemena Kamali and Lucio Finale have been charged with putting together the Lanvin pre-fall 2016 collection and the upcoming fall line, which will help tide the year over until a new creative director can be brought in. They are both fresh faces, who have worked with Chloe, Givenchy and Valentino, the latter two part of Finale’s past.
Since the changes began at Lanvin, we have seen a slight change also in the designs shown off. “Our focus is on the Lanvin woman, who she was and who she could be,” Kamali told Vogue, “but the evolution of the house, as well. It’s about finding a balance between the fundamentals but also thinking of who that woman is today. How can you inject that dose of authenticity?”
The new line-up includes 38 pieces, from leather coats to velvet dresses, Victorian ruffles to transparencies added to sweetheart necklines. Slouchy suits and skintight leather knockoffs appear on the campaign, interesting uses of materials seen throughout. Safe and casual are far from the words that would be used for this line-up, though it is clear it is not Elbaz designing the collection.
We, however, are head over heels in love with the use of aqua colors, particularly amidst the darker, more earthly tones seen otherwise. There is also a good amount of reds, from maroons to scarlet to deeper red designs, a hue, which really lends a hand to perfecting the creations before us. We see fur stoles, as per the year’s top trends, alongside frilled ruffles on skirts and tops, wraparound skirts and plunging necklines; there are high waists and loose pants, extremely wide legs to the slacks that fall to the floor. It is an interesting collection to say the least.
Without a doubt, it is an ambitious collection that features a few too many themes and the most promising pieces being a pair of coats. We like it of course, and the use of velvets is to be commended, but there is just something missing that we are used to getting from Lanvin.
All in all though, it is a great try to fill in the void created by Elbaz’s leaving, including a mannish herringbone overcoat and a Japanese polyester jumpsuit that seems to have erupted into bows. The deep ruffles were a fun addition as well, while the tone set by the collection was that of confident flamboyance, which so perfectly suits Lanvin in of itself.
Photos courtesy of Vogue
What happens when one of the most acclaimed fashion designers leaves his position as the creative director of an as much acclaimed fashion house? Such a situation is what the Parisian label Lanvin, founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1885, is currently facing. Former creative director Alber Elbaz left the fashion house less than a week ago, leaving in one fell swoop also the direction of the upcoming Lanvin pre-fall 2016 collection. While Lanvin’s headquarters are working hard to decide who is going to fill Elbez’s big shoes (insiders and speculators claim that behind this decision there might be names such as Joseph Altuzarra, Olivier Rousteing and Haider Ackermann), Lanvin Studio is about to design the brand’s pre-fall 2016 collection.
Behind such a studio team, whose line-up is going to be revealed in January as usual, there are big and international names such as Chemena Kamali, Elie Top and Lucio Finale. While Kamali and Finale will surely compensate Lanvin’s recent ‘loss’, giving the collection an interesting yin and yang perspective, Top’s experience with Lanvin will be the icing on the cake. In fact, while the former two are young emerging designers, Top has a long curriculum full of prestigious collaborations and collections.
Chemena Kamali, a recent ready-to-wear talented designer who has just joined Lanvin’s eclectic team, has some interesting collaborations with brands such as Chloé and Alberta Ferretti. Having graduated from Central Saint Martins in London, Kamali is still quite a mysterious presence in the fashion industry, but will surely give Lanvin’s pre-fall 2016 collection a feminine and fresh touch.
Fellow colleague Lucio Finale, having graduated from Accademia di Belle Arti in Naples, Italy, features in his CV some prestigious collaborations with Valentino and Givenchy, for which he designed shoes, bags and accessories. His first steps in the fashion industry include also a versatile collection of shoes, made of refined leather and minimal lines, designed for the independent brand called Finale Unlimited.
Last but not least, Lanvin’s pre-fall 2016 collection will surely take advantage of the French-born jewelry designer Elie Top. Elie, who has been Elbaz’ longlife collaborator, has been Lanvin’s accessories director for nearly 15 years now and, although he has just launched a modern-looking eponymous line, he decided not to leave the fashion house in this critical moment.
No one knows what Lanvin’s pre-fall 2016 collection will look like, but the headquarters’ decision to rely on the Lanvin Studio team is surely interesting and unconventional, and could even represent a new breaking point for the Fashion House, influencing its future main lines. Moreover, the brand’s trust in such young artists definitely leaves a good message for the future generations of young fashion designers, who could look up to Finale and Kamali as sources of inspiration.
Photo courtesy of Vogue
Fashion-related bombshells are following one after another, putting us off the stride and registering the recent years as a real revolutionary period in the fashion world. Nearly a week ago we learnt we’d be deprived of the Dior’s creative director Raf Simon’s extravagant and fastidious style for the house and no sooner did we come to our senses, than quite unexpectedly, in the morning of October 28, 2015 WWD spread the word about one more shocking loss in the fashion world – Alber Elbaz is leaving Lanvin. Is it possible that the Lanvin RTW spring 2016 collection was our last chance to be pampered by crazy intricate drapes? The charismatic Moroccan Israeli fashion designer, the Chaevalier of the Légion d’Honneur, Paris and finally the creative director of the French fashion house Lanvin – Alber Elbaz left the fashion house yesterday after reigning there for 14 years, rejuvenating the brand and making it one of the authentically luxurious houses of the contemporary world.
According to some rumors, the reason of Alber Elbaz leaving Lanvin was some controversies between the designer and the company principals: the owner Shaw-Lan Wang and chief executive officer Michèle Huiban. It is worth noting that Shaw-Lan Wang was the one who saw Lanvin’s further development under the patronage of the talented designer whom she, by the way, called “the sleeping beauty” and apparently she herself was the one to deprive the brand of his patronage. There isn’t any official statement from Lanvin yet, but yesterday later in the evening the brand posted a brief statement on its Instagram account, announcing that its collaboration with Alber Elbaz was over and that was a decision made on the mutual basis, afterwards thanking the designer for his huge impact on the brand’s development and for the chapter he had written for the fashion house.
From yesterday on we have been trying to guess the real reason for the breach until today in the morning Alber Elbaz made an official statement:
“At this time of my departure from Lanvin on the decision of the company’s majority shareholder, I wish to express my gratitude and warm thoughts to all those who have worked with me passionately on the revival of Lanvin over the last 14 years; express my affection to all my wonderful colleagues in the Lanvin ateliers who accompanied me, and who enriched and supported my work. Together, we have met the creative challenge presented by Lanvin and have restored its radiance and have returned it to its rightful position among France’s absolute luxury fashion houses.”
Then he continued wishing great luck to the brand: “I also wish to express my profound and deepest gratitude to all of the clients and friends, to the French and international press, and to all those business partners who collaborated with Lanvin, providing us with support since 2001. I wish the house of Lanvin the future it deserves among the best French luxury brands, and hope that it finds the business vision it needs to engage in the right way forward.”
Actually, the designer has recently had some dissatisfaction with the brand’s strategy up to urging Shaw-Lan Wang to leave the position to save the company from bankruptcy, since the business magnate was known to demand too high price, which resulted in the falling of the company’s consolidated sales.
The designer’s future path is not yet known but some rumors are circulating that he is the exact candidate for occupying the empty position of Dior’s creative director, given that three years ago Dior conducted some negotiations with Alber Elbaz when racist and anti-Semitic John Galliano was ousted from the company. Who knows, maybe Alber Elbaz will follow in Raf Simons’s footsteps by opening his own brand or maybe he will abruptly change his life trajectory, finally fulfilling his early dream to become a doctor.
Photo courtesy of WWD, Vogue