Sensual, dark-toned and overwhelmed with fancy heroin-chic vibes, Ennio Capasa’s Costume National fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection gave Milan Fashion Week a more sophisticated and mysterious twist. Capasa, who mainly became famous in the Nineties and whose proposals contributed to changing fashion forever as much as Giorgio Armani’s did in the Eighties, has so far always tried to remain true to his famous androgynous style, making sure his collections could always scream Costume National from afar.
The latest Costume National FW 2016-17 rtw lineup reinforces Capasa’s views even more, as it catapults us in a world made of androgynous clothes, overall relaxed lines and sensual, beguiling materials. While looking at the collection, the first thing that comes to anyone’s mind is how deeply smitten Capasa is about midnight blue. The entire lineup in fact almost solely features this color, with only a few touches of white, black and red appearing here and there. He also tried to add some big floral patterns, but the collection is the most solid-colored one we have ever seen so far in the scope of the fall 2016 fashion weeks.
The Italian fashion designer did, however, put a lot of emphasis on the variety of the fabrics, making sure silk, lace, velvet, wool and cotton had an equal visibility throughout the collection. That said, he particularly enjoyed mixing the midnight blue proposals with rich velvet fabrics, as such a combination adds a sort of ephemeral sophisticated beauty to any kind of look, charming us every time we lay our eyes on it.
As for the common lines used within the womanswear proposals, Capasa focused more on androgynous oversized cuts rather than merely mannish silhouettes, adding his own contribution to genderless fashion. Most of the proposals may not be regarded as conventionally feminine or masculine, even when featuring see-through materials such as embroidered lace or big adornments like floral patterns. Like in the Nineties fashion, Capasa tried to reinvent once again both the casual-looking suit and the transparent overall, the vaporous lines and see-through materials of which may be regarded by many as a sign of freedom (from conventional fashion norms).
Like Anna Molinari’s latest Blugirl collection, Capasa also enjoyed playing with hems, sleeves and collars, letting them have their time to shine and become the main protagonists. The Costume National FW 2016-17 rtw line is flooded with shirts and blouses, the collars of which range from asymmetrical triangular necklines to turtlenecks, going all the way through the latest funnel, band and big Cossack collars.
As for the outerwear, sharp collarless coats and deconstructed double-breasted jackets surely bring forth the whole heroin-chic concept of the collection, creating an intriguing contrast with the many trousers and relaxed shirts. Besides a bunch of hourglass proposals, the collection features drop-waist (if not waistless) silhouettes, the dynamicity of which seems to be in the hands of frills that effortlessly embellish most of the designs.
The collection’s key pieces surely are the evening frocks, the tactic cut-outs on the shoulders and the longuette skirts of which are destined to enchant many of us.
Photos courtesy of Vogue