The Acne Studios fall/winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection showed a different perspective to Paris Fashion Week. Apparently, Jonny Johansson was hell bent on making a statement, so he did, clearly saying backstage he “didn’t want to go urban or streetwear or sporty in any way.”
Well, no need to worry about that, as he definitely did not steer anywhere near the pragmatic and chic style, choosing instead to aim for a more artsy, offbeat direction meant to be more feminine and romantic. Though artistic is certainly a good word choice for the fashion options typically offered by Acne Studios, soft is not usually a term chosen to describe their offerings. The difference was appreciated, though the effect may have come off a bit more wistful than intended.
The inspiration for the Acne Studios fall 2017 collection was hand puppets that were created by Paul Klee to entertain his children, and thus the raw stitching, patch work and deconstruction featured in the looks did make sense. The appeal was there for many, and again based on the inspiration source a lot of the elements did make sense, but some of the looks were not wholly flattering.
Admittedly the color scheme was phenomenal, but some of the outfits stood miles away from others in terms of flattering aesthetics. So many pieces lacked a real shape that would have made the looks flattering. For puppets yes, a looser dress makes sense, but on real women, shapeless should not be done in so many options with patches placed at random in ways that accentuate or add nothing.
The difference in textures and sheen was interesting and unique, the movement was incredible; it is just the silhouettes that are an issue.
One dress however, a warm brown with rich red velvet patches, was a surprise. The fabric flowed around the model, accentuating every step, with the difference in texture apparent under the light as she moved. The back featured a low open V with a tassel tie at the top of the neck. It was gorgeous, billowy and incredible although it was not tailored much to her form. It was an incredible ‘loose silhouetted’ option that flattered without doing too much.
It was the juxtaposition of this dress amongst some of the others that is a bit jarring. So close and yet so far!
Overall the Acne Studios fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection had a higher number of good pieces than bad and again, the goal of Jonny Johansson was definitely reached. This is not a streetwear collection. These are also not the most practical of clothes either, but that does not downgrade the beauty or effort put into the designs or the final aesthetics.
Photos courtesy of Vogue