Paul & Joe’s Fall 2017 RTW Collection Goes Androgynous
Paul & Joe opted for looks that weren’t as sweet as usual for its fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection for Paris Fashion Week. Founder and creative director Sophie Mechaly decided to try something new, choosing silhouettes that were androgynous and strong for her urban consumers.
Much of the Paul & Joe fall 2017 lineup consisted of workwear with unique aspects for the occasion. Some looks, like a green all-corduroy pantsuit, were reminiscent of pajamas but had a strong structure that works for daywear.
Velvet was another key luxury fabric in Paul & Joe’s fall/winter 2017 collection. The first piece of the fabric was an oversized black floral jumpsuit with a lightly cinched waist. It’s a whole lot of floral for a head-to-toe piece, but it will make for quirky workwear. It was even styled with same-floral footwear tucked underneath and a same-floral bag trimmed with fleece.
This pattern was emulated in other looks down the road, with some similar executions. Another head-to-toe style was a knee-length satin dress that, alone, would work well for daywear or workwear. It was paired with three same-floral pieces: the same boots as the first look, a leather fleece-lined jacket and a large handbag trimmed with the same fleece. The pieces were individually perfect for daywear, and putting them together makes for a striking runway appearance.
Mechaly didn’t totally stray from her cute and sweet sensibilities of the past. The looks were updated and integrated in the collection, so her classic aesthetic wasn’t abandoned.
A dark hot pink button-down dress was right on the edge between edgy and cute, with slight bell sleeves and the perfect hem length for a transition from day to night. Bringing in minor accessories would help to steer this look closer to edgy or cute, depending on your personal style. This is a key piece for Mechaly’s switch into a collection focused on stronger colors.
A style that crossed very easily between cute and strong came as a result of pop art hot lips. They first appeared in a pair of suede platform boots that were the same design as the floral ones from earlier in the lineup. Soon after, a flared knee-length dress with a plunging neckline walked with a medium-scaled version of the print. That dress registered as inherently sweet. A head-to-toe lip-patterned pantsuit was another option, as was a green blazer with five large lips decorating the front. The latter was paired with rose pants for an interesting color effect.
Some looks were created in ways that would be easy to turn feminine with small aspects, but Mechaly opted to keep them more androgynous. A pale coral knee-length dress with a tied neckline and bell sleeves read as neutral because of its boxier silhouette and drop hem. Cinching the dress at the waist would have created a lovely feminine silhouette, but the designer’s choice shows the conscious transition she is trying to make for the brand in the season.
Paul & Joe finished off the fashion month official calendar, so choosing to do something a bit more out of the ordinary for the brand was the right way to go. There’s a special sense of finality that comes from watching the final show of a new season, so presenting new ideas is appreciated as a palate cleanser.
Photos courtesy of Vogue