Paco Rabanne Focuses on Wearability for Fall 2017
Julien Dossena just unveiled his Paco Rabanne fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear designs, overwhelming Paris Fashion Week with strong urban-chic aesthetics. Dossena’s latest Paco Rabanne collection infused the fashion house with one of its most contemporary spirits, which also managed to celebrate Paco Rabanne’s most notorious legacy in a new, never-before-seen perspective.
Unveiled earlier this afternoon at PFW, the Paco Rabanne fall/winter 2017-18 collection could be poetically described as a sort of mirror of its own aesthetics, the modernity of which ran copiously though each one of the garments showcased. Zen-influenced soul Julien Dossena translated this urban modernity of Paco Rabanne to a dual, specular interpretation of each proposal, constantly toying with a sort of yin and yang sartorial code that we yet had to see at PFW.
While browsing through the Paco Rabanne fall 2017 rtw collection, Dossena’s “twins’ quickly come to life, as the way in which the French designer managed to introduce almost each one of his proposals in its more shimmery, metallic counterpart is astounding to say the least.
Ever since Julien Dossena became Paco Rabanne’s creative director in 2013, he has never missed a chance to reinvent the Spanish house’s signature patterns according to his own rules, yet never underestimating their importance in the industry. One of the major items he had the chance to reinvent was, of course, the notorious Disc-o-Rama dress, which made founder and self-proclaimed accessoiriste Paco Rabanne famous in the late Sixties.
Throughout the past three years, Dossena took the risqué, see-through discs of the Disc-o-Rama dress and deconstructed them in a more urban-chic, wearable way, leaving the its futuristic appeal almost behind. For this specific Paco Rabanne fall 2017 collection, the designer went even further in his purpose, utilizing the metallic fabrics of the dress for the most conventionally casual dresses, and the notorious patterns of the discs for the coziest materials ever created.
With the collection based on duality, Dossena managed to take both the line-up’s casual t-shirts and the contemporary, asymmetrical skirts, just to prove that both their opaque and shimmery versions would look unapologetically cool on anyone, even if we mix and match the single items with one another. Then, to spice things up even more, he completely revolutionized the Disc-o-Rama’s standard rounded discs and re-shaped them into a rhombus, either realized with a textured or a metallic cloth, yet never in an actual metallic material.
As for his Disc-o-Rama-inspired proposals, he then also had fun playing with the colored contrasts and more ethereal figures, utilizing the iconic pattern on everything from tube dresses to long tops with frilled hems.
As for the collection’s remaining part, Dossena kept things interesting treating us to covetable items, such as sharply tailored pants, cropped sweaters, fitted tops and relaxed suits, definitely assembling one of Paco Rabanne’s most intriguing collections so far.
Photos courtesy of Vogue