Edithmarcel Fall/Winter 2017-18 Collection: a (Genderless) Point of View On Fashion
Founded in 2015 by Gianluca Ferracin and Andrea Masato, Edithmarcel is one of Italy’s most visionary and appreciated emerging fashion brands, with its genderless fashions changing and broadening our views on fashion, art and philosophy.
After debuting at the Fashion Hub Market in 2015, during Milan Fashion Week, Edithmarcel has never stopped mesmerizing us, participating in the Who Is On Next project created by Alta Roma in collaboration with Vogue Italy, and then presenting an acclaimed fall/winter 2017-18 collection at Altaroma earlier this January.
During this current Milan Fashion Week, Ferracin and Masato re-showcased their Edithmarcel fall 2017 collection at La Cavallerizza at Milan’s renowned National Museum of Science and Technology, literally blowing our minds away.
First off, the staples were genderless, indeed. With clean lines dominating the scene, the staples exuded a free-spirited, agender soul we yet had to see in a seasonal collection, with sweatshirts, coats and roomy trousers being its biggest protagonists. Few jocose accents, such as sustainable furry hems and metallic pockets revamped the proposals, too, treating us to something minimally chic I honestly instantly fell in love with. But what do we mean, when we talk about “genderless’ fashion?
While many might be more accustomed to the term “unisex’, Edithmarcel’s genderless fashion does not translate conventionally feminine/masculine lines into those of the opposite gender, as it directly creates something that eschews the “gender norms’ and can dress the male and female bodies alike.
Genderless fashions aside, Edithmarcel’s care for sustainability is absolutely worth mentioning too, as it is an intrinsic part of Edithmarcel’s revolution itself. With everything from the furry coats to the silk denim fabrics being 100% eco-friendly, Edithmarcel’s creative duo inevitably makes an important fashion statement, i.e. that of a fashion brand that not only aims at filling our wardrobes with stylish options aplenty, but also looking at the non-so-distant future through a more respectfully conscious lens.
To better understand who and what’s behind one of Italy’s most promising brands, we reached out to Andrea Masato for an interview.
– Tell us something about you and Edithmarcel. What made you venture into genderless fashion?
“We come from different career paths. While Gianluca studied Fashion Design, I studied Architecture. We decided to focus on genderless fashion because of Gianluca’s dissertation, which spurred and encouraged us to ponder on what genderless fashion concretely meant. It was a concept that not only was up-to-date, but also extremely in tune with our philosophy, both stylistically and culture-wise.”
– How would you define genderless fashion? Do you think it will spur a cultural change of mindset in our society?
“From our point of view, genderless fashion is synonymous with freedom, as it gives you the possibility to not actually have to choose something. It breaks gender role barriers, allowing us to just enter a shop feeling empowered by the knowledge that we can actually try on and wear anything we like, indiscriminately.
This is a concept we are specifically fond of, which also finds its actual realization in our target audience. EdithMarcel’s clients greatly vary in their target, with people from 20 years old up to 60 appreciating what we are doing, with single items being styled differently.
We are not saying fashion should be only genderless, but that it should be a possibility.”
– What kind of difficulties did you encounter in the industry?
“The kind of difficulties one faces are various and different in their nature. First and foremost, the fashion industry is a saturated market. Many labels open and shut down their businesses in the span of a few months. There are also multi-faceted issues one has to think about, such as the kind of business one wants to run, as well as the type of distribution one feels is better to invest in.”
– What are your main sources of inspiration?
“Everything from art, photography and cinematography inspires us. This latest fall/winter collection of ours, for example, finds its main source of inspiration from Irish artist Francis Bacon’s evocative creations, as the line-up’s staples play with layers, repetitions and contrasting fabrics, the contours of which are deliberately fogged.”
– Edithmarcel in the past, present and future ” What changed? Where will it take you?
“Edithmarcel did change a lot ever since it was founded. As a matter of course, the first collections helped us understand how everything works. The actual shift in perspective happened after the label’s very first full seasonal cycle, which helped us define Edithmarcel’s style better.
We still view Edithmarcel as a continuously evolving project, meaning that we are not closing the door on anything. As for our future, well, we have learnt it is better to not preset anything, as many things are ephemeral in this business. We didn’t even expect many of these latest goals to be achieved, so we try to set up things seasonally following a specific line, without stamping our feet.”
You can follow Edithmarcel on Instagram at @edithmarcel_official.
Photos by Virginia Cafaro