Proenza Schouler is joining the ever-growing list of fashion houses that are changing their yearly fashion calendars, and is going to show both its main and pre-fall collections at Paris Couture Week twice a year, leaving New York Fashion Week thus.
Proenza Schouler’s shift from the New York schedules to those of Paris Couture will be effective starting from the upcoming spring/summer 2018 season and runway show, with the Proenza Schouler fall/winter 2017 ready-to-wear show taking place in New York, on February 13th, as usual. By doing so, Proenza Schouler mainly aims at emphasizing the “heart and soul of the Proenza Schouler brand”, thus focusing and putting all of its efforts on “just’ two runway shows per year, one in January and one in July (the location has yet to be revealed).
Why favor the exclusive Paris Couture Week over the more accessible, yet always anticipated, New York RTW Fashion Week, though? According to the fashion house, Proenza Schouler is in the process of re-defining its overall attitude, focusing on a “more pronounced international presence’ that, among many other things, will help the launch of Proenza Schouler’s exciting future projects, such as the upcoming fragrance made in collaboration with L’Oréal Luxe.
Forthcoming collaborations aside, Proenza Schouler’s choice has a lot to do with the fashion industry’s changing processes and always more demanding audience. According to Proenza Schouler’s official press release, showing its main and pre-fall collections in Paris will help achieve “the company’s short and long-term goals’, as well as “enable the organization to function in a way that is more aligned with the demands of the industry today.’
It is also worth mentioning that in a world where fast-fashion seems to be the prevailing form of fashion, Proenza Schouler’s decision sort of breakes its chains by letting its collections live longer at retail, rather than being replaced by the next seasonal collection in a jiffy. The choice will, in fact, “ensure that Proenza Schouler’s runway collection, including both ready-to-wear and accessories, will be the focus of buys and deliver to stores earlier, thus giving them a longer life at retail. The collection will be divided into monthly deliveries each representing key groups from the show.’
As for the upcoming New York Fashion Week, the Big Apple already appears to be one of the industry’s current less favorite destinations, with fashion houses, such as Tommy Hilfiger, Hood by Air, Rebecca Minkoff, Rachel Comey, Rodarte and most recently Opening Ceremony, ditching NYFW for oases like Paris Couture Week and even Los Angeles. As many are already pointing out, only Raf Simons will probably save NYFW with his Calvin Klein runway shows, at this point!
Photo courtesy of Vogue