There is something about the Forties that is charmingly capturing, especially when its motifs get filtered through different lenses. For his pre-fall 2017 season, Erdem Moralioglu transposed the Forties to the Seventies, creating the dynamic Erdem pre-fall 2017 collection that is nothing but magically exotic.
“I’ve been thinking about the ’40s as seen through the ’70s,’ explained fashion designer Erdem Moralioglu, whose Forties-approved stream of consciousness marks the second Forties-inspired pre-fall 2017 collection so far, with Bottega Veneta’s being the first one.
While Tomas Maier’s take on the Forties treated us to the Bottega Veneta pre-fall 2017 collection that was more like a revisit of the Forties as seen through a modernist lens, Erdem Moralioglu’s pre-fall 2017 collection embraces a more dramatic look, mixing the signature figures of the Forties with the Dancing Queen lifestyle of the Seventies.
Not for nothing, behind Erdem Moralioglu’s main inspiration for this collection, we easily found Bugsy Malone, a 1976 musical gangster film directed by Alan Parker, Bernardo Bertolucci’s The Conformist from 1970, and pictures of designer Paloma Picasso wearing glam rock staples in the Seventies.
While thanks to Bugsy Malone Erdem Moralioglu surely got the line-up’s jocose and carefree patterns (the film itself only featured children, in its cast), from Bertolucci’s political drama The Conformist he got what ended up to be this Erdem pre-fall 2017 collection’s most dramatic and melancholic allure, which in return almost gets the line-up closer to haute couture rather than ready-to-wear.
As for style icon Paloma Picasso, namely Pablo Picasso’s daughter, Erdem was fully inspired by her signature looks, which mostly consisted of one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces, bold prints, and oversized coats.
Ironically, although deeply paying homage to Paloma Picasso’s style, the Erdem pre-fall 2017 collection does not include one of Paloma’s must-haves: red-colored staples and makeup (she is mainly renowned, style-wise, for her bright red lipsticks, which even led L’Oreal Paris to collaborate with her to create the iconic and bestseller Mon Rouge shade).
Nehru collars, peplum cuts, furry materials, drop-waisted dresses and feminine mid-length skirts took on a starring role throughout the whole Erdem pre-fall 2017 collection, the often deconstructed figures of which almost seem to be mist-shrouded in dark-toned botanical patterns.
To create a more dynamic approach to his own version of the Forties, Erdem Moralioglu embellished some of such patterns either with sequined or glittered cascades of embroideries, the shimmery motifs of which inevitably trace us back to the lineup’s Seventies-inspired theme.
Although mostly featuring high fashion dresses and gowns (it is still all about the Forties, after all), the collection features a few appealing bell-bottom trousers, as well as tons of floral hosiery, meant to be paired either with the collection’s skirts, or anything that is short enough to make it possible for us to show them off in all their glory.
While Erdem’s hosiery seems to specifically target all those who proudly own anything from short gowns to cropped billowy culottes, the Erdem pre-fall 2017 collection’s accessories are for those who can’t get enough of revisited old-time classics, from chunky heels to pointy shoes. As for the latter, it seems like we already have a pre-fall 2017 trend, other than Forties-inspired garments!
Photos courtesy of Vogue