Phoebe Philo’s Celine Spring/Summer 2017 RTW Show Cited Dan Graham
Held at the Tennis Club de Paris during Paris Fashion Week, Phoebe Philo’s Celine spring/summer 2017 collection is one of the most talked about runway shows of the moment, as the iconic fashion designer mixed moments of pure femininity with highly couture-esque urban-chic motifs. To top it all off, Phoebe Philo also added a subtle element of surprise to her lineup that will particularly intrigue those, who have fun playing with accessories.
As a whole, the Celine spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection was extremely variegated and sophisticated, even when displaying outerwear-inspired staples. Like Gvasalia’s Balenciaga spring 2017 collection, Philo’s Celine lineup for the spring/summer 2017 season strongly focused on cozier figures, with textures, lines and cuts that will come in handy especially during spring’s weather unpredictability.
Phoebe Philo played with different materials too, with a sleek leather fabric and silky materials dominating the scene. Most of the blazers, sweatshirts and trench coats also looked warmer than what we would usually consider as a summer-read staple, which will make many of you sad that the collection was not a see-now-buy-now one.
Although some staples were heavyweight looking, the overall impression was that of an extremely relaxed lineup, both in lines and perceptions. Draped and wrapped dresses ethereally got alternated with inversed peplum skirts, with airy capes and voluminous sleeves completing the lineup. Slightly sheer fabrics surely helped the collection get its most voluminous, flowly take, as seen, for example, in the drop-waist shirtdresses, and billowy cropped pants.
Aside from the bright whites, which are one of Philo’s recurring shades, the Celine spring 2017 collection included soft yellows, mint greens and reds, with also pops of delicate pink and orange revamping the scene. The collection’s protagonist was, however, a specific shade of blue, renamed International Klein Blue after French artist Yves Klein.
Philo, who loves mixing art with fashion, took one of Nouveau Realisme’s leading artists as one of her collection’s main sources of inspiration, as his signature blue paint strokes got revisited to evoke and represent female silhouettes. Phoebe Philo then also dipped some of her white frocks into Yves Klein’s iconic blue hue, adding a sort of street style allure to the entire collection.
Yves Klein was not, however, the only artist whose works inspired Philo’s Celine spring 2017 collection. To reinforce the runway show’s cosmopolitan attitude, Philo asked artist Dan Graham to showcase one of his most standout works, namely an S-shaped structure that was placed in the middle of the runway.
“Social interaction, fantasy and life in general are the main driving forces in my work,’ explained Celine’s creative director. “Dan Graham’s installation is therefore an interesting and powerful way for me to present my collection to the audience.’
As mentioned above, Philo’s Celine spring/summer 2017 collection was heavily urban-chic, as demonstrated by the runway show’s soundtrack as well, namely the noises of the city traffic. Such a soundtrack went hand in hand especially with the layered, street wear-inspired outfits, which she often completed with pairs of sporty-chic Adidas Stan Smith.
The accessory line couldn’t, of course, be any less imposing than the clothing line. Pointy-toe flats and ankle boots, often unpaired, got alternated with fancy sneakers and whimsical hybrids between a flip-flop and a boot, which unapologetically reminded us of Philo’s elegant nonconformism.
Photos courtesy of Vogue