Vanessa Bruno Fall 2016 RTW Channels Diane Keaton
Eclectic and always a glutton for punishment, Vanessa Bruno grew up surrounded by all things fashion. That’s why she seeks pure beauty through her creations, unveiling them season after season at Paris Fashion Week. For her Vanessa Bruno fall/winter 2016-2017 ready-to-wear collection she specifically chose to celebrate exactly the same beauty she grew up surrounded with, focusing on clear sharp cuts, rich textures and Seventies references.
Before becoming a fashion designer Bruno spent many years modeling, singing and acting, launching her eponymous label in 1992. Equally eclectic is Bruno’s main source of inspiration for her fall ready-to-wear lineup: Diane Keaton. Screenwriter, director, producer and actress, Keaton also has a great personal style, and Bruno felt like celebrating her terrific skills throughout her creations. She chose to specifically focus on Keaton’s first years in the entertainment industry, accentuating all the roles that shaped her early career, such as Play It Again, Sam (directed by Woody Allen in 1972), The Godfather (1972) and Annie Hall (which won her the Academy Award for Best Actress in 1977).
Exuding a sophisticated sense of minimalism, the Vanessa Bruno fall 2016 collection focuses on hefty long A-line dresses, mid-calf gowns and miniskirts, bell-bottom trousers, flared capes and oversized structured coats, reinventing the same flowy, feminine and fancy cuts that made her highly popular in the mid Nineties. She did however also add a touch of edgy modernity thanks to cabochon metal usage, ethereal feathers and of course floral embroideries. Her signature bohemian spirit got effortlessly represented here through the many tunics and folk-inspired cardigans, not to mention the roomy palazzo pants, delicate sheer shirts with bateau necklines and knitted sweaters.
Those who have been falling in love year after year with her famous dusty color palette will be extremely delighted to spot a few pastel proposals here as well, while those who like it when she takes her time to experiment with hues won’t be disappointed to see how carefully she combined blue, green and red in a single look. Such a choice doesn’t come by chance, as Vanessa Bruno looked up to visionary Italian painter Vittorio Zecchin as the collection’s second source of inspiration.
Zecchin, who like Bruno did not start his career as an artist immediately after finishing school, was influenced by Klimt and Toorop’s points of view on art, and often used bold blues, reds and greens to paint most of his glass, furniture and ceramics creations. Bruno managed to translate Zecchin’s Art Nouveau-inspired works to fashion, making ample use of color-blocking motifs and glittery, clearly Klimt-inspired, fabrics.
To top it all off, she often contrasted such vivid colors with opaque velvet materials, as a constant friendly reminder that Keaton’s looks from the Seventies are the collection’s leitmotif indeed. As always, she also managed to perfectly combine each one of her designs together, skillfully balancing the volumes, the different colors and the patterns. Acknowledging both Bruno’s and Keaton’s achievement is one good way to start celebrating International Women’s day!
Photos courtesy of Vogue