Roland Mouret Fall 2016 RTW Perfect for Fans of the ’80s
It has now been more than 10 years since fashion designer Roland Mouret unveiled his Galaxy dress, charming the world with a never-seen-before wave of sophisticated femininity. Since then, he has never stopped celebrating a woman’s figure. A long time habitué at Paris Fashion Week, Mouret has just unveiled an equally delicate and uber-feminine fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection, this time solely focusing on hourglass silhouettes and sensual bare shoulders. Although figure-hugging designs have always been Roland Mouret’s hallmarks, this particular collection displays a new way of perceiving and creating femininity, as it is filled with an interesting multitude of not only different fabrics, but also abstract designs.
Besides utilizing the stretchy fabrics that were mostly used in the Fifties for creating underwear, Mouret also experimented adding lace, velvet and fishnet details too, making sure their dynamicity could follow and hug the woman’s figure like a second skin. To spice things up, Mouret even opted for adding glam rock vibes to most of his garments, looking up to Stevie Nicks and Kate Bush as the perfect muses for his collection. Fleetwood Mac’s charismatic singer Stevie Nicks and first female artist to achieve a UK number-one at the UK Single Chart with a self-written song, Kate Bush both represent independent women, who are not afraid to show what they are made of and fearlessly love to express their personalities through clothes as well.
Bush-inspired references, especially those of her ‘The Sensual World’ album (which was especially well received among many musicians), are specifically vivid throughout the Roland Mouret fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection, as the designer particularly enjoyed taking both the singer’s literary and sensual motifs as the main sources of inspiration. The line-up is thus a well-served mixture of Victorian patterns and Eighties-inspired detailing, which besides velvet panels include black and white contrasting motifs, visible hems and risqué see-through attachments.
The collection’s color palette was close to that eclectic decade too, as it was all about rich blacks, bright whites, sophisticated burgundy shades and eccentric touches of bold purple and electric blue. Green and fire red had their time to shine too, to the pleasure of those who love to make a strong sartorial statement through eye-catching colors.
He then put a lot of emphasis on the necklines, which got enriched with minuscule keyholes, rectangular sharp cuts and tactic cut-outs. Most of the line-up’s proposals include off-shoulders dramatic necklines as well, as they contribute to balancing the figure even more.
To further accentuate the waits, Mouret made ample use of tactical moves such as geometric reproductions of hourglass figures, at times intertwining them with both striped patterns and botanical motifs. Oversized coats, along with roomy trench coats and the many long solid-colored frocks surely are the collection’s key pieces, even if they are less elaborate than the other proposals showcased.
Photos courtesy of Vogue