Emilio Pucci Spring/Summer 2016 Collection – Milan Fashion Week
Who says fashion is boring, overrated and always predictable? Whilst those who do not like fashion that much may see it as too cyclic and repetitive, those who are way more than enthusiasts about it know it’s always better to wait and expect the unexpected. Today, thanks to the Emilio Pucci spring/summer 2016 collection by MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti, this statement has reached its peak. In fact, as soon as the very first model made her big entrance onto the catwalk, everybody knew it wasn’t going to be your average womenswear collection. And, by the time it was ended, it was already the number one topic in everybody’s conversations.
Behind Pucci’s spring 2016 collection there is Massimo Giorgetti, a 38-years-old Italian designer said to be highly influenced by Yves Saint Laurent, Coco Chanel and Walter Albino among others. He loves to play with traditions and modernity, and this collection was his debut ready-to-wear womenswear collection for the house (Peter Dundas, former Pucci’s creative director, is going to make his debut with Roberto Cavalli this weekend). The collection has a dystopian nautical theme, which features captured sea creatures and marine embroidery patterns. Not everyone liked its results, and that’s mainly because a large part of Pucci’s audience was looking for a ready-to-wear collection that, conventionally speaking, was indeed ready-to-wear.
Giorgetti’s creations are nothing but simple, both regarding their lines and colors, and may be seen (by some) as the epitome of a new contemporary fashion movement. Each single outfit is different from the other, albeit all the looks are united by a mystical force connected with the underwater world. In fact, even though he may have taken this theme to its extreme, every single piece reminds us of the sea, and gets us close to Giogetti and Emilio Pucci’s homeland, Italy, which inevitably has some strong bonds with the Mediterranean Sea.
Giorgetti enjoyed playing with every type of print, fabric, length and accessory, as well as with a burst of bright and vivid colors that he managed to combine in unusual and funny ways. In fact, even though some combinations of both colors and prints usually do not interact that well with each other outside the fashion industry, he somehow made it possible to give each hue and fabric the chance to be a free spirit, and to play in an unordinary territory. For spring, Giorgetti, like John Galliano and Jeremy Scott, also embraced the metallic trend, turning it into a more fluid and almost ‘aquatic’ version, adorning it with sequin rows and sheer fabrics, proving us, once again, his ability with fashion and design. Furthermore, along with sequins and metallic fabrics, he liked to play with layers, giving each outfit dynamicity and balance. And while almost every single outfit has an asymmetrical cut, only a few are deconstructed to ‘the point of no return’, linking the collection more to deconstructivism rather than postmodernism.
With his debut, Giorgetti broke down conventions and normal boundaries, destabilizing those who were expecting a more conventionally glamour collection from the brand. The Emilio Pucci spring 2016 collection looked distressed, unfinished and experimental, that’s for sure, but it gave us all some food for thoughts, and made quite an impression on everybody (whether we like it or not). And, after all, that’s what fashion is all about: impressions.
Photos courtesy of Vogue