For his Antonio Marras fall/winter 2017-18 rtw collection, the Sardinian couturier created a sort of theatrical dialogue between two important figures from the Twentieth century on the runway, whose passions and references had got weaved together through Marras’ signature fil rouge and care for the figurative patterns.
But who were Eva Mameli and Pina Bausch? Why and how did designer Antonio Marras transpose their passions to fashion? Sassari-born Eva Mameli was a Sardinian botanist and university professor, who devoted her life to the study of nature. She was also mother to Italo Calvino, one of Italy’s most renowned authors.
German performer and dancer Pina Bausch was, on the other hand, a leading influence in the field of modern dance, with her unique blend movement still being one of ballet’s most iconic styles.
Both women were pioneers and vanguards of their times, with their talents and visionary minds still being celebrated nowadays. Antonio Marras, who often pays homage to people who really existed and changed history with their lives, brought both Mameli and Bausch onstage to make them meet and tell us their stories, paying a tribute not only to the two women, but to botany and ballet as a whole, too.
As for how he transposed such naturalistic and dancing patterns to fashion, the Antonio Marras fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection featured two main motifs, namely botanical embellishments and prints, and loads of tulle. The botanical patterns got also transposed to the men’s wear line, as this specific runway show was presented in the co-ed format. The men’s wear line, like the women’s, also featured well-played patchworks of different styles and appliqués, which could be linked to Bausch’s performance-art appeal and modern dancing style.
As for the main figures of the women’s collection, Marras’ take on the next colder seasons was not a strictly winter-approved one, as he alternated cozy, warm proposals with more lightweight, if not almost springy outfits. The former treated us to covetable long coats, structured jackets and midi skirts, which got often paired with ballet-inspired relaxed blouses refined with off-the-shoulder necklines.
The latter, on the other hand, appeared as a sort of Mameli-meets-Bausch inspiring dialogue, with hourglass figures, intricate embroideries and lace and tulle fabrics harmoniously going hand in hand with each other, serving up some of Antonio Marras’ most astounding looks ever.
One of the show’s best parts, which really gave us a glimpse of Antonio Marras’ approach to fashion, was the designer’s choice to ask some of his friends to walk for the show, which ultimately infused the collection with Antonio Marras’ signature familiar touch.
This is particularly vivid in his store in Milan, NonostanteMarras, too, as it is not “just” a concept store, but rather a multi-disciplinary experience through art, literature and fashion. If you happen to be in Milan, we recommend visiting it!
Photos courtesy of Vogue