The Antonio Berardi fall/winter 2017-2018 collection was voluminous and dramatic. The sculpted pieces would stand out any time and everywhere. The tailoring was elegant and even a bit off-kilter in a very positive way. The inspiration for the collection was none other than Shakespeare’s infamous Lady Macbeth.
Lady Macbeth was artful and cunning and both of those elements abound in this collection. The silhouettes and styling are set with the background for Lady Macbeth in mind. The clever construction of the garments in the collection is designed to be adjusted and altered with drawstrings – an element as unexpected as the collection itself.
The collars were very high, holding their shape and drama with careful wiring for a callback to the Victorian era of dress. The knits and outwear were season-perfect options that came in a variety of tones, but not a single one lacked a significant amount of theatricality.
The duplicitous character of Lady Macbeth made a real impression on Antonio Berardi, and thus the Antonio Berardi fall 2017 collection fully reflected this in garments that appeared to be one thing, but were really something completely different. What appeared to be multi-piece ensembles were actually single-piece gowns and dresses, and in one case even a cream jumpsuit rather than the two-piece pantsuit it appeared to be.
A new translation of what a parka is made an appearance on this runway that was as iconic as the inspiring character from the very first look. The parka featured an extraordinarily tall collar and a lot of cashmere. The parka also had a removable train or back skirt and a flattering wide belt. Folded down waistbands on flowing wide-leg pants seemed aesthetically interesting but enticingly comfortable.
The colors the collection presented were as strong and rich as the actual looks. Black and navy, cobalt blue and grape, crimson gold and cream showed up on the Antonio Berardi fall/winter 2017 runway. So much volume, so many different silhouettes and hemlines can typically cause confusion regarding the intent of a collection, but not here on the Antonio Berardi runway. Here everything made sense, a modern interpretation of the Shakespearian bad girl that was Lady Macbeth.
The use of silk chiffon, gossamer black lace and black silk with fluttering trails of silk enhanced the movements of the models down the runway towards the end and showed a slightly different side of the collection. The collection was without a doubt old school bad girl chic and even cooler, it was done unapologetically. The Antonio Berardi fall 2017 collection was as incredible as the inspiring character, and I personally am very excited to see this collection out and about in the future.
Photos courtesy of Vogue