Zac by Zac Posen Fall/Winter 2016-2017 RTW: NYFW
Who says literature and culture have nothing to do with fashion? Project Runway’s judge Zac Posen often draws inspiration from literature, art and history, unveiling innovative and creative collections that make it hard to not fall in love with him. And now, with his Zac by Zac Posen fall/winter 2016-2017 collection, he gave New York Fashion Week some clear Dark Romantic touches, celebrating nature, grotesque and melancholia at the same time.
Recently appointed as the creative director of Brooks Brothers women’s line and about to launch a unique Zac Posen x MAC Red Carpet makeup line, Posen seems to be always full of energy and creativity, the results equally flowing into his three main lines. Zac by Zac Posen could be regarded as a sort of casual street-style line, although it always has room for some whimsical red carpet pieces as well. As for this FW 2016/17 collection, we could rightly say that Posen took his time to create something that not only was a pleasure to watch, but that was also aiming at fully enhancing a woman’s figure and strong nature (which he has always been particularly fond of).
Nature is one of the lineup’s main leitmotifs too, although this time it appears in a more decadent and melancholic way. Big dark floral patterns often adorn the culottes, mermaid frocks and maxi dresses, giving the entire collection a strong Dark Romantic allure. Fawn patterns help reinforce nature references too, officially becoming one of the most interesting animal prints of the upcoming fall season. Posen had fun mixing all these romantic patterns with dark colored matching jackets, coats and flannels, just pairing the perfect hue of blue with dark black.
Tartan prints and flannel patterns are the collection’s second most recurring motif, and Posen used them to have fun playing with geometry and layers. Loads of pleats, roomy trousers and cropped jackets feature such patterns, revealing the collection’s next message: structuralism.
Very detailed and precise like a late-Eighteen-century architect, Posen’s latest creations include some layered floor-length frocks and to all appearances ‘plain simple’ little black dresses, which are both dark and delicate in nature. Intricate lace embroideries with floral designs and see-through long sleeves play a huge role within the last pieces, accentuating the mysterious allure of the Zac by Zac Posen fall 2016 ready-to-wear collecton.
Other interesting looks spotted throughout the collection include oversized knits, unconventionally fringed sweaters in off-white and fur accents here and there. Those who particularly enjoy Posen’s accessory creations will be much relieved to see that he included some fancy backpacks, handbags and clutches as well, which are basically perfect to serve as stylish finishing accents for daywear and nightwear.
With his latest collection, Posen once again confirmed his status as a great mastermind to make a fashion statement infusing daytime and nighttime creations with sophisticated, yet sensual femininity, but also his terrific artisanal techniques, which quickly made him one of the most successful emerging designers at the beginning of the XXI century.
Photos courtesy of WWD