Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall/Winter 2016-2017 RTW
When punk rock fashion queen Vivienne Westwood met eclectic artist Andreas Kronthaler, it was love at first sight. The married couple that is also a professional duo still perfectly embodies the quirkiest side of fashion even after more than 20 years spent living and creating together. Newly born, the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection was unveiled for the first time ever at Paris Fashion Week, denoting an intriguing new path for Westwood’s lines too.
Vivienne Westwood earlier announced that only her eponymous label and her Gold Label line were going to be produced, and that the latter was going to be renamed after her devoted husband. Such a choice also emphasizes some solid differences between the two lines, besides denoting how deep and respectful the relationship between Westwood and her husband is. “I have designed with Vivienne for more than 25 years. To add my name is to emphasize and clarify the differences between our lines. It is not a big change to the way we work but it will bring a new direction and I am happy and excited for the future,” declared Kronthaler, to which Westwood added: “over the years Andreas has taken on ever more responsibility and I wish this fact to be reflected in public perception.”
Dramatic, dark-toned and overall imposing, the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood fall 2016 collection combines Westwood’s signature punk rock motifs with Oriental, bohemian and British vibes. Aside from the gauzy trousers and sharp jackets, the collection’s main lines could be regarded as gracefully relaxed, even when combined with geometric colorful patterns and contrasting hems. Oversized and genderless, most of the pieces inevitably remind us of the Eighties, with all their studded applications and gender-bender allure.
To describe the collection’s debut is not an easy task, as it may be literally regarded as a well-served potpourri of all the things Kronthaler likes. He deconstructed fashion to the point that gender, proportions and patterns are not important anymore, yet always manages to create designs that are a pure pleasure to watch. Kronthaler’s controlled chaos made him combine dramatic pointy hats with oversized coats, voluminous golden windbreakers with unisex suits, not to mention the abstract, asymmetrically cropped pants and surrealistic jackets.
To top it all off, he even mixed warm and cozy jackets, as well as furry neck warmers with Japanese sandals, making sure each one of his designs had at least one Far East-inspired motif. I mean, who else could so gracefully mix wrapped kilts, tartan waistcoats, bellboy jackets with velvet athleisure pants, deconstructed earth-toned Saris and Bishop hats all together, if not Andreas Kronthaler?
It is also extremely interesting to notice how he did, however, manage to celebrate his wife’s legacy through the very last pieces of the collection, wherein studded frocks, oversized cape coats, contrasting collars and shredded blazers confirm once again how deeply interconnected the artistic, professional and sentimental bonds are between the two of them.
Photos courtesy of Vogue