Valentin Yudashkin Spring/Summer 2016 Collection – Paris Fashion Week
Yudashkin’s eponymous line was founded in 1991, and soon became a worldwide success. His initial collections, which all had exotic and evocative names (such as Catherine the Great in 1994 and Birds of Paradise two years later), show Yudashkin’s cosmopolitan spirit that, however, never forgets his Muscovite roots. The Valentin Yudashkin spring/summer 2016 collection perfectly sums up Yudashkin’s sense of fashion and style philosophy: traveling east to China, Korea and Japan, he takes most of these countries’ typical clothes and revisits them in a more contemporary, ‘Russian’ way.
Before becoming one of Russia’s most famous fashion designer, Valentin Yudashkin was a hard-working student in Soviet Russia, where being a male fashion designer was not the most popular profession among the students. However, being a self-confident and determined designer, he managed to make his dream come true, first showing a collection of 150 pieces in Moscow, in 1987, and then gaining an impressive reputation as one of the best emerging fashion designers in Paris a few years later.
Yudashkin makes his intention clear since the very first two pieces of the spring collection unveiled, which respectively show a contemporary white tight-waist Nehru jacket (combined with long white trousers) and a white (sort of) Baseball jacket, matched with a tight white skirts, hot red high heels and a red handbag (does it mean that, according to Yudashkin, matching shoes and purses is again a thing?). As we get further into the collection, Yudashkin’s desire to give his line-up a more exotic allure becomes more vivid thanks to the great amount of kimono jackets, Chinese collars and wide silky belts wrapped around the models’ waists, which dynamically play with the pieces’ colors and structure.
Furthermore, like a feng shui interior designer, Yudashkin reveals his great attention to details as proven by some geometrically cut hemlines and rows of solid-colored laces that adorn most of the shirts and jackets, often going color-block with the rest of the outfit. Then, like artist and compatriot Kandinsky (who, like Yudashkin, travelled a lot during his lifetime), the Russian designer gives his version of the abstract expressionist art movement to the line-up. He, in fact, takes most of his long shirtdresses and adds some paint drip onto the clothes, achieving a pleasant effect that will surely excite many contemporary art enthusiasts.
Structured and layered pieces are great protagonists of the Valentin Yudashkin spring 2016 collection too, and may be linked to the Russian flamboyant and decorative Naryshkin Baroque architecture. Speaking of flamboyant pieces, the finale of the show introduces us to the most spectacular and theatrical items of the collection, which include voluminous ruffled dresses and metallic ones that once again look like a product of Yudashkin’s subconscious creations.
Last but not least, it is interesting to notice how the Russian designer challenged himself using just a few colors (mostly red, violet, white and orange), trying to combine them in the always-different ways. One more reason to love him is that he always designs and makes a new fancy dress for his lucky daughter for New Year’s Eve.
Photos courtesy of Vogue