Trussardi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection – Milan Fashion Week
Greyhound is perpetually sauntering in Trussardi’s collections with its noble, elegant and swift traits. However, the Trussardi spring/summer 2016 collection is an overt deviation from the long established elegance and chic. To all appearances Gaia Trussardi’s preliminary version of spring collection was an assembly of impeccably tailored and elegantly designed pieces. But then quite unexpectedly she came across the documentary film “Tracks” on National Geographic and so deeply got absorbed with Australian writer Robyn Davidson’s journey through Western Australia for nine months back in the ‘70s that she completely modified her collection deliberately making some parts of fabrics shabby and rugged, enthusiastically destroying some strict seams as a result presenting a range of roughly-tailored pieces, raw unfinished trims and faded shades. Robyn Davidson was alone while traversing Western Australia accompanied by only four camels and a dog. The concept of a lonely woman who is not faint-hearted to live far from the society without any communication but on the contrary feeling quite at ease with nature was a real takeaway for Gaia Trussardi to generate her western-inspired spring/summer collection infused with safari vibes. “When I saw the film, I said ‘wow,’ this is what I am doing,” designer Gaia Trussardi said backstage.
A fleeting look at the Trussardi spring 2016 RTW collection makes us imagine that the lineup has been showered with sand-soil-dust rain painting linen, woven cotton, canvas and woolen pieces into gunmetal, ash grey, charcoal, camel brown, mahogany, earth yellow, ivory, tawny and a range of other typical-of-desert hues. It will be quite difficult to embark on finding a pair of pants, a shirt or a trench to be body-hugging and traditionally sensual. Trussardi’s definition of woman’s sensuality goes beyond sexual body rather punctuating her terrae filius spirit.
The collection’s slouchy and sweeping pants that in no way demonstrate women’s muscular legs, the roomy and massive trenches, duster jackets or blazers that gently peel away from the body and over-worn ensembles (vest-over-top and trench-over-vest) that emphatically disguise female body silhouettes are providing ultra-comfort and rapid motions, which are the most significant attributes while you are enveloped in powerful nature’s vibes.
Gaia Trussardi has come up with some trendsetting decision. Some It girls are sure to copy petite vests but much more likely those suede or woolen vests with tattered edges that sometimes come with lapels and sometimes without. The waists of some maxi skirts imitate diagonally folded paper, an innovational design that is seemingly to be seen on many fashion conscious ladies once the spring sun starts spreading its warm rays. A range of baggy trenches where anyone can literally get lost are to become perfect for greeting spring after cold winter.
However, the Trussardi spring 2016 collection is not completely devoid of body-showing elements. There are a couple of high-sky splits on maxi dresses, crop tops that are sensually baring women’s bellies and some plunging necklines on shirts.
In the midst of the show we witness Gaia breathing new life into the collection adding some sunny bright colors like tangerine, mahogany, pumpkin and deep sky blue, a couple of richly beaded and printed pieces that in some aspects do not go with the whole lineup’s safari twist and, of course, Trussardi signature leather pieces. We see a Princeton orange leather crop top and the same shade body-hugging leather maxi dress charmingly baring the model’s sultry shoulders.
As if the collection itself hasn’t yet conveyed the spiritual aspect of life, Gaia has decided to emphasize it once more by embellishing the models’ necks with Virgin Mary pendants and to be sure, the emphasis was quite relevant.
Photos courtesy of Vogue