Anthony Vaccarello’s second collection for Saint Laurent is a fierce one for sure, with all of his seasonal takes on fashion exuding a kind of femininity that not only is sensual and strong, but also unapologetically free-spirited. Unveiled at Paris Fashion Week yesterday night, the Saint Laurent fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection also payed homage to both the house’s legacy and its futuristic appeal for fashion, with both themes intertwining their patterns all together, finally becoming one.
While backstage, creative director Anthony Vaccarello explained he aimed at celebrating “Monsieur Saint Laurent’s subversive approach to clothes,” with this specific collection intended “to be like a re-reading, a radical fantasy of this heritage.”
Focusing on both the past and the future of the fashion house, Vaccarello’s latest visions for Saint Laurent mainly revolved around the Eighties, namely one of the Twentieth century’s decades that we inevitably associate with Saint Laurent already. To naturally include the retro-futuristic motif to the proposals, Vaccarello proceeded maximizing most of the silhouettes, with the heavy, structured silhouettes veering upwards.
All in all, four were the Saint Laurent fall 2017 rtw collection’s main recurring patterns, the outcomes of which are already overall well received. First and foremost, Vaccarello’s care for the proportions was always extremely radical yet balanced, with the standard Saint Laurent mini dresses being balanced by intricate appliqués, structured shoulders and heavyweight materials such as leather.
The latter also recurred in almost each one of the proposals and, if not on the clothes, had something to say on the accessories, too. This Saint Laurent fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection showcased an incredible amount of leather pointed-toe, cone-heeled boots, which were interrupted only either by few less shiny, suede boots, or sleek sandals (there were also a few pairs of sneakers that, although being the minority, will very likely become it-girls’ must-haves).
The collection’s third pattern also had to deal with the fabrics, as Anthony Vaccarello consistently played with shimmery materials, too, ultimately infusing the collection with its extra futuristic factor. Whether it was about the leather dresses, the trench coats or the sweatshirt’s sleeves and necklaces, Vaccarello had fun adding little sparkling touches here and there, making most of the items look almost multi-dimensional and, in return, celebrating the fashion house’s notorious appeal for party dresses.
“I always relate YSL to parties, to evening,” Vaccarello continued backstage. “I couldn’t do a show without those golden years, but I wanted to take that further.”
As for the Saint Laurent fall/winter 2017-18 line-up’s very last recurring pattern, Vaccarello surprised us with very few, yet high-impact country-chic proposals, which took the collection’s dominating brown shades and leather fabrics and translated them to utilitarian, winter-approved jackets, skinny jeans and urban skirts. Whether we love to party or explore the cities, Saint Laurent has us covered!
Photos courtesy of Vogue