Saint Laurent Fall 2016 RTW: La Collection de Paris
Eek! The Saint Laurent fall 2016 collection is beyond intriguing and even more beguiling but not what we would have expected at all. While the first part of the fall 2016 collection showcased in Los Angeles was definitely really good, the “La Collection de Paris” unveiled at the Hôtel de Sénecterre seems to have returned the creative director of the house, Hedi Slimane to the house’s couture roots and it appears at times like it’s a “Pretty Woman” situation gone. Dedicated to Slimane’s studio and atelier, all the 42 looks unveiled were handmade according to YSL’s couture techniques at the house’s newly restored ateliers. The show featured no music at all, but Bénédicte Ginestous announcing the looks’ numbers in English and French (he used to do this for the house from 1977 to 2002).
Extremely thin models and black pumps with the dress combined with extreme slicked back hair and a little too much makeup lead to no other conclusion: Yves Saint Laurent finds inspirations in the ’80s. That is not to say there are no good outfits. On the contrary, while the beauty looks leave much to be desired, presenting bony severe looking women with extremely long limbs on the Paris Fashion Week runway, the pieces are often truly remarkable.
We love the high waists on the skinny pants, complete with front creases and matched with thick belts; there is everything to love about the warrior tops in reptile texture, while we begin to really appreciate the body contouring done through the thick belts throughout.
We cannot love the mini dresses with the strange flower sleeves or the Cruella De Ville scary shouldered coats, but that does not mean some of the other mini cut dresses with the sleeves long and short, the legs generally left mostly bare with a pair of pantyhose to accentuate their length, and all the other little things do not earn our adoration. Then again, that seems to have become the Saint Laurent go-to style these days.
While the clothing is lovely for the most part, other than the strange shoulders and the ballerina skirts, the 42 ensembles available have much to offer. The one thing that we have been paying major attention to is the footwear, those scrumptious pumps in every color available. We have the classic black ones that do not inspire much emotion, and then the reds that are all about the sensuality (bright and dark alike), while we also get to enjoy the same cuts in silver, gold, stark white, bright fuchsia, darker pink, buttercup yellow, midnight blue, gorgeous teal and more.
Pumps are a classic no matter what dress worn over on top, meaning that investing in a good pair from Saint Laurent will ensure you look amazing for quite some time yet. The pumps worn with dark, even black, panty hose with a sheer element to them certainly only elongate already long legs, making the ladies appear even taller than they are. The extremely thin nature of so many of these girls is worrisome though and we have to wonder about the latest BMI related laws meant for the French fashion industry, the one with the most slender females in town.
Photos courtesy of Vogue