Proenza Schouler Fall/Winter 2016-2017 RTW – NYFW
Minimalist painter and printmaker Frank Stella might be crowned as this New York Fashion Week’s most celebrated artist, since another Fashion House took his iconic works as its lineup’s main source of inspiration. Still vivid in our mind is the Alice+ Olivia FW 2016-17 ready-to-wear line, namely the long-sleeve geometric-print gown inspired by Stella’s artwork, which managed to literally blow our minds away. If you crave for more Stella-inspired pieces, rejoice! Proenza Schouler’s creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez just released a well-served lineup for the fall/winter 2016-2017 season, which indeed directly draws inspiration from our the most beloved minimalistic artist of all time.
Proenza Schouler’s point of view on minimalism is, however, closer to deconstructivism, as the long and sinuous lines of the pieces got skillfully paired with layers of fabrics and lacing adornments. While the Alice + Olivia collection played more with cubistic influences, McCollough and Hernandez enjoyed developing the other side of deconstructivism, a.k.a. minimalism. Being a natural development of postmodern architecture in the Fifties, deconstructivism in fashion often showcases tight waistlines and geometrical cuts that somehow manage to balance the figures, minimizing the bare skins’ proportions and playing with tactical cut-outs and lateral slits. When not featuring tight waistlines, deconstructive fashion drops the waists displaying a sort of Twenties-inspired cubistic array of proposals, which could be particularly seen in Proenza Schouler’s newest FW 2016-17 rtw collection.
McCollough and Hernandez alternate hourglass silhouettes with dramatic drop-waist figures, which deconstruct the silhouettes from head to toe. That is translated to the deep plunging V-necklines most of the jumpsuits feature, although coming, of course, layered with long-sleeved shirts underneath them. Miniskirts and short shorts are not an option either, as the barest the collection gets when it channels geometrical cut-outs and wide (yet not-so-plunging) necklines.
The collection’s color palette is not that diverse either, although it includes appealing bursts of colors, such as yellow and red (which at this point are next fall’s sole protagonists). It focuses more on blacks, whites, beiges and, generally speaking, on different kinds of materials. Sleek fabrics interrupt the many silky proposals, without undermining the collection’s overall ethereal appeal. Refined gowns and floaty roomy pants might also play a huge role in this kind of angelic side of Proenza Schouler, which definitely helped the lineup get closer to Haute Couture rather than ready-to-wear.
To top it all off, McCollough and Hernandez charmed us with some well-tailored bisected jackets that will probably quickly become the collection’s winning pieces, and might be a good investment for those, who are looking for a staple to show off next October.
Photos courtesy of Vogue