Paul & Joe Fall/Winter 2016-2017 RTW – PFW
While earlier last year Paul & Joe brought us to a world made of exaggerated prints and bright hues, this very next autumnal season will be instead under the sign of the suit, according to the label’s creative director Sophie Mechaly. Although the Paul & Joe fall/winter 2016-2017 ready-to-wear collection, showcased a few hours ago at Paris Fashion Week, did channel some vivid colors and more conventionally feminine figures, the overall impact is that of a lineup that enjoyed embracing mannish cuts more, changing the way one looks at feminine fashion once more.
Mechaly, who began working as a menswear fashion designer in 1995, has always been fond of Seventies suits and tailored pants, through which she introduced a fresh and innovative take on both menswear and womanswear. Vintage prints and a well-served combination of different fabrics are one of Mechaly’s most famous hallmarks as well, and those who particularly enjoy such motifs in Paul & Joe looks will absolutely rejoice to discover that she did leave room to play with them throughout this collection as well. Thus, the Paul & Joe fall 2016 collection alternates conventionally feminine frocks with more unisex, blissfully sharp-cut attire options, which the designer herself described as being “nouvelle bourgeoise”.
What Mechaly wants to embrace through her latest designs is modern rebellion against the Parisian society’s unconscious dress code, which demands girls and boys to dress in a certain way according to what their stage in life is. Paul & Joe’s ‘average’ girl is instead more prone to breaking the boundaries of fashion, as she loves embracing a more liberating dress code that has nothing to deal with the nowadays’ society standards.
To reinforce the whole nouvelle bourgeoise concept and to further intertwine it with both younger and adult audience, Mechaly put a lot of emphasis on the fabrics, alternating fresh denim total looks with silky, sequined and even leather suits and outfits. From pinstripe to loungewear suits, the line-up makes sure every single taste could be satisfied, as it both features pure mannish cuts and more feminine hourglass figure types of suit jackets and pants.
Overall elegant, the collection plays just a lot with some cool ‘back to school’ vibes as well, layering most of the proposals with either frills and pleats or button-down shirts worn underneath cute A-line mini dresses. Other fresh proposals include funny prints such as big stars, hearts and even abstract animal motifs, meant to adorn the sleekest and shiniest pieces. More conventionally elegant surely are the relaxed frocks with retro prints and the grand number of single and double-breasted coats, which could be one of next season’s greatest investments for those who are specifically looking for a nice tres chic warm jacket to sport in 2016.
As for the colors, besides black and white, Mechaly kept on with the whole(literally) fil rouge theme, adding bright touches of bold fire red here and there. Other interesting shades include pink and a dusty purple, the softness of which got effortlessly accentuated with fluffy furry inserts. Wearable and versatile, this collection might not be the most eye-catching and dramatic one, but surely was a pleasure to watch.
Photos courtesy of Vogue