Jeremy Scott Showed Cardboard Couture for Moschino Fall/Winter 2017-2018 RTW Line
Moschino’s fall/winter 2017 ready-to-wear collection for Milan Fashion Week was perfectly ready to ship out to customers. The show was novel with a lot of gag garments walking the runway – say, a “handbag” made from a gold chain and a toilet paper roll. Nonetheless, Moschino, helmed by Jeremy Scott, made cardboard couture look fabulous.
Scott based his collection on the idea of an avid fashionista who is now totally broken. So despite the novel “packaging material” fabrics that were used, the silhouettes were clean and sophisticated, and definitely on track with what Scott’s clotheshorse would have worn before her untimely financial demise.
With the packaging theme, of course, there was a neutral color scheme for a good portion of the lineup. Scott took his theme literally, creating suits resembling cardboard with packaging tape and other cardboard-colored garments embossed with packaging stamps.
Regardless of one’s wealth or personal status, though, a central theme that Scott shows a heavy advocation for is recycling. Each time an order is placed, there’s one more box that will inevitably go to waste. So Scott seems to be saying, “Why not use the boxes the clothes came in as clothes themselves?”
The first garment to walk was a pencil skirt and blazer, with gleaming “packaging tape” crisscrossing around it, just like it would on a shipped package. The novel element here was a hat styled to look like a mini box as an accessory. Scott put the look on Kendall Jenner, so the show was off to a strong start from the get-go.
The lineup continued on with packaging-themed garments in trendy, mature silhouettes; even the edges of pockets on some garments were perforated to look like the raw edges of cardboard. Even with the interesting packaging embellishments, purely from a color perspective, the Moschino fall 2017 collection could have fallen flat.
But, of course, Scott would never let a Moschino walk down the runway in a monochromatic color scheme; a third of the way through his lineup, there was an explosion of color.
Sora Choi opened up the round of unexpected color with a jacket with a body shot design and knee-high boots with a matching explosive color scheme. It was a lot to take in, and much what we’d expect from a Moschino lineup.
It quickly turned into a vintage throwback. Some of the more novel garments were those with pictures of old Moschino looks on them, complete with the bodies of the models who wore them at the time.
One dress, worn by Birgit Kos, went back to Moschino’s bondage lineup. The top part of the dress featured a picture of a gold bodice, which panned over to even show the model’s arms. You can also see the hair of the model at the shoulders. In similar fashion, the skirt showed a black bondage skirt with the model’s hands on her hips. It’s almost difficult to note where the picture ends and the real garment begins.
As Scott told Vogue backstage, the collage prints were “ripped from the pages of Vogue,” and were all of Moschino editorial spreads. Just like the boxes, Scott seems to be suggesting that pictures of his clothes can make just as good garments as the real thing.
Photos courtesy of Vogue