Gucci Fall/Winter 2017-2018 RTW: The Alchemist’s Garden
Here we are with one of Milan Fashion Week’s most talked-about runway shows – Gucci’s. Dubbed The Alchemist’s Garden, Gucci’s fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection, the first one under the co-ed format, was an ode to the past, yet with a keen eye for the future, with everything from the accessories to the runway show’s set, looking nothing but frozen in an indefinite time.
The Gucci fall/winter 2017-18 rtw runway show debuted in Gucci’s brand new hub, a 35-thousand-square-meter space inside the former Caproni aeronautical factory on via Mecenate 79, where all of Gucci’s collections will be showcased in the years to come. For this grandiose debut, Alessandro Michele teamed up with artist and photographer Coco Capitan, who handwrote some of the t-shirts’ logos.
The space, which was futuristically rearranged with purple lightning and a graffiti reading “future”, also had star-studded first rows and was inevitably ultra-crowded, with guests including Gucci lovers Tom Hiddleston, Soko, Tavi Gevinson, Jared Leto, Florence Welch and ASAP Rocky. Described by Gucci’s CEO Marco Bizzarri as “a white box that Alessandro can decorate as he wishes”, Gucci’s debut in the new hub was unexpectedly memorable, with the collection’s staples being even more mesmerizing.
All in all, the Gucci fall/winter 2017 collection was extremely coherent in style, with Gucci’s standard geek-inspired motifs going hand in hand with its more classic bon-ton ensembles, as well as revolutionary Alessandro Michele-approved street-wear garments.
And “revolution”, which at Gucci is to be intended as synonymous with future, was the collection’s focal point along with Gucci’s logo, which figuratively represented the Italian fashion house’s legacy. When interviewed by WWD a few days ago, Bizzarri teased us pointing out the importance of the logo, which according to him is neither to be feared, nor to be left untouched. Not for nothing, creative director Alessandro Michele’s biggest revolution revolved around the Gucci logo.
“When I saw Alessandro for the first time and we started to speak of Gucci, we were both convinced of the power of the logo,” Bizzarri revealed to WWD. “You can’t be ashamed of its logo and what it represents, but you must think of it in a contemporary way. Alessandro has been able to mix the animal world, the bees, the head of a lion to the logo, or mix different signs together. This makes the pieces basically impossible to copy. Because you can copy a logo, but when you put additional craftsmanship and creativity on the fabric and the logo, it becomes really very difficult to copy that product.”
With few words, Bizzarri basically revealed the concept behind this latest Gucci fall 2017 collection of Michele’s, which, thanks to animal prints, floral embroideries and even standard tartans, put all of the efforts into transforming each one of the items into something inimitable and absolutely unique.
Everything got filtered through Michele’s visionary lens, from the tailored coats to the long, layered skirts, even with Michele’s signature varsity jackets and bombers looking less extravagant and more timelessly magical than ever before. Here and there, Alessandro Michele also definitively had fun toying with the proportions and the genderless figures, with dramatic necklines, short shorts and airy shirts taking our breath away.
Almost each one of the proposals featured one-of-a-kind accessories that are already on everyone’s lips, and which included big nose rings, Peggy Guggenheim-inspired glasses, and even knitted snoods.
Well, the past year apparently gave us just a tiny hint of Alessandro Michele’s Gucci revolution, with 2017 already being one of the fashion house’s most promising years.
Photos courtesy of Livingly