Who else could easily combine oriental influences, haute couture-esque vibes and Club Kid reminiscences in one collection, if not Riccardo Tisci? With silhouettes that radiate his signature refined ethos, and a few pieces that got inspired by a softened version of motocross apparel, the newest Givenchy resort 2017 collection treats us to a sophisticated, yet cutting edge glamour that will surely give us something to talk about for the next days.
By creating his Givenchy cruise 2017 line-up, Tisci also brought out his own, (sub-) urban-chic version of the high/low trend that is all the rage now, filtering most of his proposals through a youthful, street-style lens that makes everything look both conceptual and unconventional at the same time.
Tisci, who used to work hard and play hard during the Nineties, and is a self-proclaimed rave party-habitué, used his knowledge of the club culture to better combine it with the haute couture fashion he currently spends most of his time on. He managed to prove this way that one doesn’t necessarily have to give up on his personality when interested in high fashion.
As the designer declared, fashion is a matter of identity as well, and wearing something that we recognize as part of our past or current persona/personality may exude a sense of peace and harmony (not to mention the fact that it can boost self-confidence as well). “Even young generations of women, in a moment of crisis, want to buy something that they recognize. So identity is the key,” he explained.
To fully embrace this mood, Tisci shot his Givenchy resort 2017 lookbook in Naples, an Italian city that, as broadly known, could be regarded as the epitome of contrasts. From exquisite historical buildings to abandoned streets, Naples perfectly embodies the line-up’s spirit, which recalls a person who is trapped between two worlds that he loves equally.
Like the city of Naples, the collection’s contrasts are greatly accentuated by the lookbook’s setting, making the shots look like artistic photos per se rather than making up a fashion editorial. As Tisci described, the collection goes “towards the dark, but with the romanticism as well.”
The line-up, which comprises men’s proposals as well, could be divided into two different themes, both of which are united by the same contrasts. On the one hand we have the beauty of soft feminine details, frills and pastel colors that meets street style with all its sharper lines, textural fabrics and darker colors giving a sense of ease to the entire collection.
On the other hand, we can enjoy high doses of elegance, here filtered through the underground music scene movement, and represented by sophisticated mannish tailored suits combined with dramatic platform shoes and geometric embellishments. This theme is the one that probably gives the collection its edgiest, funkiest attitude, at the same time offering designs that could easily transition form nighttime to daytime.
Layered lightweight dresses get a sporty, eased-up twist thanks to the cropped jackets, while psychedelic prints come combined with high platform shoes, kimono sleeves and mesh inserts. Egyptian motifs from the fall 2016 runway remind us about Tisci’s knack for busy patterns, while clean-cut coats and bolero jackets balance the pieces with something wearable on a daily basis, recalling Givenchy’s legacy.
Photos courtesy of Vogue