Phoebe Philo’s Celine Fall/Winter 2017-18 RTW Line Is For the Busy Woman
The Celine fall/winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection was clean and efficient. The modern and simplistic aesthetic of the clothes seemed to be ideal for the busy woman with a task list to tackle. The entire runway show seemed to be about bustling and moving through the day.
Busy, busy, busy, the models were constantly on the move in a well expressed ambiance of everyday goings on with people moving to get where they needed to be. Seating on turntables pushed home the ‘as the world turns’ type of theme, but possibly giving some vertigo between the slow movement of the bleachers and the dizzying paths of the models.
Even the silhouettes of the backstage crew added to the impression of people rushing to get things done, but we know this is the way of things backstage anyway. The point was well made if not focused on too much. The concept stopped just short of bashing the spinning audience over their heads.
There was a lot of change for the Celine brand this year with a new Instagram page and the announced launch for e-commerce and even a new CEO. The influence this had on Phoebe Philo appears to have bolstered a physical manifestation of confidence in the silhouettes of her ensembles. Philo is a master of the minimalist form but certain tweaks are evident in her new collection, showing a Celine collection that is not only on the move, but expecting people to get out the way as well.
Everyone pulled something different from the show, from journalists being low key to high key offended that Philo was allowing a hello but no questions or in-depth interviews at all backstage to those wondering what the dizzying choreography of the models was meant to flesh out. To me, it seems obvious that the point Phoebe Philo wanted to push home was that the Celine woman is busy, she has things to do, and thus as a Celine woman Phoebe Philo too is busy, only having time for a quick hello in passing.
Minimalists do not use a lot to make a point, and Phoebe Philo is famous for that minimalist style in her conversation and explanations as well. Though the clothes were minimalist in design, they were affluent looking, comfortable in their appeal to convey her point Philo chose not to explain her collection to death this season – it spoke for itself.
She provided levity for the seriousness in very attractive stoles that looked like portable comfort draped over the arms of a few of the models. The Celine woman is prepared; there is certainly that aspect to the looks as well during a very successful show that hammered quite a few points home.
Photos courtesy of Vogue