Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring 2017 RTW: ‘The Rape of Europa’
The Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood spring/summer 2017 collection has been anticipated for several reasons that range from a desire to see what Andreas Kronthaler will dream into reality to good old label anticipation. Regardless of why people were so excited to see the runway show, it was clear to see that they had a lot of fans ready and waiting.
Vivienne Westwood is a strong brand with an exceptional background and Andreas Kronthaler did not disappoint. There were pieces with significant symbolism in them, while others, like a textured see-through jumpsuit over a shiny pewter bikini, were fashionable items only. The variation of the styles and looks was certainly eye catching with straw pieces, wide-necked, high-shouldered designs.
There are interesting distressed shirts, and a few ensembles here and there, but in all honesty most of the collection does not seem very wearable for most people. A pewter colored dress is so drastically short that walking would not be a possibility for some, and the same is about the broadly opened neckline that anyone with more than a B cup will need some heavy duty fashion tape to wear without major wardrobe malfunctions happening.
Some of the accessories were interesting in that they were miniatures of severed appendages, hands, and fingers. Large open-front shirts and jackets had a distinctly ‘80s feel to them. Other pieces were expertly draped, a white strapless dress being a perfect example of this impeccable tailoring. A favorite is the striped spaghetti strapped halter dress with the front side split with a matching bag and brown boots.
Andreas Kronthaler let his feelings be known by saying: “You need to be relevant somehow; I try to be conscious and responsible,” before elaborating that “clothes are a celebration of life, and that’s my responsibility.” He isn’t just speaking about his scantily clad models but his more thoughtfully clad models, where he is representing the pain Europe is feeling on all scales.
There are subtle and outright phallic references in the design of the clothes and accessories as well as the overall ensembles. The outfits are wildly unexpected and some of the more wearable pieces show off an interesting pattern and more interesting tailoring. The shoes were an interesting version of sandals for a very warm feel.
When someone inquired about Kronthaler’s bold and audacious style choices, Dame Vivienne Westwood supportively stated that, “He does develop and exaggerate things, but I think it’s the most sexy thing in I can’t remember when.”
Boiled down the style of the Vivienne Westwood by Andreas Kronthaler spring 2017 ready-to-wear collection has a lot of Matisse-esque cutouts, asymmetrical pieces and slightly unrealistic day and party wear.
Photos courtesy of Vogue