3.1 Phillip Lim Spring/Summer 2017 Ready-to-Wear Line Channels ’50s
3.1 Phillip Lim gave a rather romantic interpretation of Lim’s general sporty aesthetic to present for New York Fashion Week this year. The 3.1 Phillip Lim spring/summer 2017 collection consisted of light layers that walked a runway covered with sand and petals. The effect was still just as easygoing as the California girls Lim designs for; as a Los Angeles native, he’s been spending some extra time designing for that crowd lately.
He chose to begin with Victorian-styled bathing suits, although the garments he layered over them were more like 1990s than 1890s. But altogether, the looks read as distinctly urban. He brought in slim knits and casual slouchy clothes in ways that just made one think of a classic beach bum.
And one trend he looked specifically to insert into his line was the idea of “swimtimates,” otherwise known as a garment that meets at the intersection of swimwear and lingerie. Thanks to starlets like Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner, bikinis have been a legitimate inner-city fashion trend, so Lim tried his hand as well.
His take on the trend came across as being more intimate and romantic, thanks to the lovely layering and the setup of the runway with the sand and flowers, and yet it is still something that Hadid or Jenner would look killer in as they walked away from the waters of the beach.
And as always, Lim knows just what he wants to do and how to do it. He used heavy metal to add hardwire detailing on some of his scuba-suitesque pieces, while on the other side of things adding in demure Victorian necklines and extended sheer sleeves. That juxtaposition was rather unexpected, especially with what we’ve seen on the runway so far this week.
There has been a good deal of skin showing at many shows, particularly the shoulders and midriff regions, so this break was a surprising twist. But Lim isn’t one to shy away from trends, either, so of course there were some killer off-the-shoulder silhouettes in the line. And besides the Victorian era, Lim also pulled from the ’50s in the way of beautiful ruffles on garments like overalls.
Patsy Cline was Lim’s muse for the show, present only through a soundtrack, but her music perfectly set the mood for the slow-paced, easygoing collection he sent down the runway. In regard to his collection, he called everything “my reaction to what is going on right now in our culture – it just felt right.”
Everyone needs a bit of time to slow down and take a walk on the beach, and he gave his audience that secondhand experience. But the most important takeaway from the show is that it was a big mixture of a bunch of different styles and moods all brought together into one beautiful show.
Lim spoke to his models before the show in similar regard. “This is real rock ‘n’ roll. This is honky-tonk, badass rock ‘n’ roll.”
Photos courtesy of Vogue