One of London Fashion Week’s most anticipated runway shows, Burberry’s spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection, has been finally unveiled at Makers House in Soho, quickly becoming creative director Christopher Bailey’s one of biggest successes. It was a see-now-buy-now showing, and the collection is already available for purchase through Burberry.com, Net-a-Porter, Harrods and Selfridges!
Bailey’s spring showing was also a particularly awaited collection because, as teased by the fashion house through its main social media, its main sources of inspiration were British sculptor Henry Moore’s pieces, but in Bailey’s own childhood memories, too.
Like Erdem, who got inspired by his Turkish and British heritage for his Erdem fall/winter 2017 rtw collection, Bailey took a trip down memory lane, travelling back in time to his childhood years. While growing up, Yorkshire-born Christian Bailey often visited the sculpture park, where some of artist Henry Moore’s most renowned bronzes held court, finding himself overwhelmed with such evocative figures.
“It was the most magnificent space filled with different sculptures, and Henry Moore was a dominant figure amongst them,” he explained to Architectural Digest. “As I was working on this collection, I started to explore more sculptural shapes, which just immediately took me to my childhood passion.”
To give us onlookers a better perspective on what his creative stream of consciousness was like, as well as to celebrate Moore’s works to the fullest, he decided to transform Burberry’s spring 2017 see-now-buy-now runway show into a sort of opening scene for the Henry Moore exhibition that will be open at Makers House in Soho for a week.
Although Bailey’s touching “intimate factor” came as quite surprising, Burberry as a fashion house shares a long history of celebrating the British culture and heritage, as seen, for example, with the Burberry fall 2016 collection that had turned to Virginia Woolf for some genderless and literary sources of inspiration.
Burberry’s spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection, which was unveiled in a co-ed format, translated the Moore-inspired motif to a dream array of sculptured ensembles, which were intricately texturized and shaped both in terms of silhouettes, and materials.
“The inspiration definitely came from the shapes, the forms, and the construction, but it also came from some quite human ways of looking at his work, quite personal things. […] There are bits of sheep wool all over the environment there,” he revealed to Architectural Digest. “When sculptures are in big landscapes, you often look at them from a distance, but if you get up close to those works and then if you get behind those processes, there’s actually an enormous amount of texture.”
Browsing through Burberry’s spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection takes a keen eye for proportions and juxtapositions, as the staples greatly differ in perceptions depending on how we look at them. If seen from far behind, the garments (especially the dresses) appear as coherent amalgams of cloths and lines, while, if one makes a few steps closer, look as intricate patchworks of completely different levels of fabrics, cuts and styles.
Although wool is the collection’s key element, Bailey carefully added jacquards, crochet and lace materials to the pieces too, using a similar care for eclectic motifs by juxtaposing stripes with monochrome and even slightly shimmery patterns, too.
Burberry’s spring/summer 2017 see-now-buy-now collection (with Anna Wintour spotted wearing one of the line-up’s must-have dresses!) also treated us to standard Burberry coats, sweaters and, of course, handbags, inevitably becoming one of this London Fashion Week’s most acclaimed runway shows.
Photos courtesy of Vogue