Hugo Boss Fall/Winter 2016-2017 RTW – NYFW
When going into a Boss runway show, it is important to note that femininity is generally an aspect that is put on the backburner, although with Jason Wu in his fifth season as creative director, that has been turning around a little more. Wu’s own design aesthetic is overtly feminine when creating womenswear, so he has worked within the parameters of Boss to endow the women’s department, and saw the brand to double-digit gains last quarter. The designer has been able to bring together the Boss sophistication and edge, while also updating the sensibility to fit the style of more women in the working world.
Shoppers of Boss are now able to have the sleek professionalism of the fashion house, while designs continue to become sweeter and truer to the signature feminine look. Wu’s Hugo Boss fall/winter 2016-2017 ready-to-wear collection smartly kept on with a similar mentality, smartly acting as a continuation of sorts from his spring line, which saw the substantial amount of success.
The looks still saw the same tailoring treatment as in the past, and the femininity that could be seen in the line was still quite edgy with tracings of the label’s staple masculinity. And the garments were undeniably created with fall and winter temperatures in mind. The color scheme was based on neutrals, but the flow was stirred by sections of orange, olive, and pink garments. Everything stayed especially sophisticated, as was to be expected, without any hemlines falling above the knee. Yet, some looks were more polished than others.
The Hugo Boss fall 2016 collection began on an edgy note, with a black dress characterized by an asymmetric neckline and neutral flowers to one side. The asymmetry could be seen many times later in the collection, showing itself to be a prominent theme. In this piece, the flowing bottom didn’t allow for tailoring but the lines at the neck showed the preciseness that could be expected through into the next piece and beyond.
The collection also utilized architectural elements to add dimension to the pieces. A contrasting black and light tan top showed pristine tailoring and was a striking number that evoked heavy feelings of confident femininity as it walked the runway. Later, an olive asymmetric peplum dress achieved a similar effect. Both were created in cozy wool, and played with curvy lines to add extra interest to the line.
“It’s still linear,” said Wu before the show. “But the lines are curvy.” This was a theme throughout the collection, and was rather uncharted for the luxury label, but the result was lovely and added on to the sophistication throughout. And with such a high reputation on the market, there were some of today’s most fashionable women seen in the front row. Bonnie Chen, Carine Roitfeld, Emily Ratajkowski, Kiki Kang, and Kylie Jenner could be seen soaking in the powerful yet sophisticated and feminine looks that were presented.
Photos courtesy of Vogue